Kerre Woodham: A carnival in the capital

My word, Wellington knows how to put on a party! Which is just as well, because the British and Irish Lions supporters know how to party. They were everywhere - a rash of red shirts spread across the city like measles, and they were loud and proud in support of their team.

They really are the best tourist a country can have - well-behaved, fun-loving, big-spenders and as good fans should be, incredibly parochial.

I came to Wellington to participate in Martin Johnson's charity debate. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I'd be on the All Black team, with Eric Rush and Stu Wilson, taking on the Lions team in the form of Martin Johnson, Ginette McDonald and the lovely Jason Leonard. But it became abundantly clear within seconds of my speech that the room was packed with Lions supporters. And I have to tell you they didn't appreciate some bint they'd never heard of pointing out the deficiencies of their team and their team's coach.

It was a gruelling six minutes. But my reward was a weekend in Wellington and two tickets to the game. I would have borne any humiliation for that prize.

Wellington, which can on occasion experience the odd light zephyr, always puts on its best behaviour for big events. Courtenay Pl was closed to traffic on Friday night and is party central for the duration of the weekend.

The cruise ship packed to the gunwales with Brits and Irish is just a 10-minute lurch from the bars, and the makeshift caravan park, chokka full of camper vans, is even closer.

The fans made the most of the gorgeous, clear, blue skies before the game yesterday by strolling Oriental Bay promenade, chartering helicopter flights (more pilots had to be brought in to cater for demand) and heading out to the golf courses.

Tills were ringing across the city and it seemed everyone was cashing in. The hairdresser I went to before the debate had just finished gussying up all the lovelies heading off to Dame Silvia's do for Prince William and every rugby player who's ever worn the silver fern and could string 10 words together, was bolstering their retirement fund by speaking at one of the hundreds of functions held before and after the game.

The carnival atmosphere was incredible and the stage was set. Perfect weather, a huge crowd of supporters for both teams and one of the best All Black sides this country's seen in a long time. Who, incidentally, are staying at the same hotel as me. Or, rather, I'm staying at the same hotel as them. I tried hard to be cool, but en masse they're an impressive sight. It would have been odd not to gawk. So gawk I did, like any other star-struck footie fan.