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Home / New Zealand

Day one: Fabulousness meets Bedlam

By Noelle McCarthy & Noelle McCarthy
17 Sep, 2008 08:37 PM5 mins to read

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It's 12.45am and I'm just in the door, burdened by an embarrasment of goodie bags and a hopping headache brought on by a surfeit of chandon. Yes, its definitely fashion week, and has been since the first ambrosial sip of Moet at their satisfyingly opulent party last night.

Seven shows later brings Day One to a close and what have we learned?

Three things actually.

* World were definitely magpies in a previous life.

* Crazy people are hot.

And

* Petra Bagust has lovely legs.

Numbers one and three you probably knew already. If you didn't, the full-on, flat-out, absolutely fabulous homage to the Rhinestone that was Francis Hooper's womenswear collection at World today, and the gratifying sight of Petra rocking her smashing pins at Hailwood would have removed all doubt about either.

Epiphany number two comes to you courtesy of Nom*D, who took us for a peek inside the asylum this year with a collection called Bedlam.

Their inmates may have been mad bad and dangerous to know, but they were also stylish, fun and even a little bit sad, in their gloriously mismatched institutional garb. Fairaisle legwarmers were layered over asylum issue leggings and pajama print dresses wrapped straitjacket-tight around the body.

Ancient fascinators nestled in bird's nest hair for a look that was more care-in-the-community than haute coutre.

There was a nod to the more traditional runway spectacle however in the piece de resistance of the show. Would you believe me if I told you that Nom*D went all YSL on it this year and closed the show with a bride?

Yep, Margi Robertson was inspired by an Yves Saint Laurent exhibition she visited while on holiday in Canada recently. No yards of tulle or and satin for this blushing maiden however. She emerged instead swathed in a gown composed entirely of old aran jumpers

To the untrained eye, it looked as though they'd been cobbled together anywhich way; but closer examination revealed a method to the madness after all. You could say the same thing for the whole collection really; there's an undeniable logic behind everything Margi and her team construct; even if its a logic that only Bedlamites and Dunedinites understand.

Nom*D was a highlight in an opening day that had plenty in the way of spirit lifts and surprises. World had me at hello, or "son of a gun" rather. Opening the show with You're So Vain was an inspired move; and a wry two-fingers to everyone who's ever said they've got too much to say for themselves. Hearing Carly belting it out in the big tent only confirmed it as my funeral song of choice as well.

World were always out to knock our socks off with this show, and they certainly gave it a good go. The call time for hair and make-up was 4am yesterday morning, and they certainly weren't twiddling their thumbs back there from the looks of it. Crystals and wigs and hats and caps and gloves and bows and over-sized headpieces and fur. Oh My!

It was the boys who did it for me though. Benny Castles continues to let his imagination - not to mention his singular sense of humour - run wild in his menswear designs, populating the catwalk with a range of alter egos who managed to look dapper and dandy and sweetly camp without ever being contrived.

They galloped out with their scarlet pants and their perky caps and their tiny handbags and they just made me laugh. That may not be the most intellectual response to a fashion show, but World don't really care about that.

They don't really care at all what you or I think. They just get on with doing what they do. Which is give us the razzle dazzle in their smart wry way. And in a climate when we're innunated daily with burgeoning statistics of depression, or busy debating the metaphysical nature of economic recession it is great to sit back and just be entertained.

So thank you World for Carly Simon, and for that.

Other highlights:

* The gorgeous shoes at Cybèle, with their teal and gold accents and feather detail. More of God's work from G&M who have already made such wonderful heels for Kate Sylvester and Zambesi in the past.

* The return of the strapless prom dress, as seen in sexy black at Hailwood and an achingly lovely flame coloured silk at Cybèle.

* The adorable Bionic Pixie who played live at Hailwood; can she be in the Goodie Bag next year please?

* Sylist Karen Inderbitzen Waller's backstage instructions to the models walking in Nom*D. The last thing they saw before they walked onto the runway was a note that said: "You have been confined for a very long time. And you've just been let out. You are dazed and confused. But still beautiful."

Lowlight: Having to walk past the serving pass in the kitchen to get to the Hailwood after party. Bright lights and shouting chefs are not conducive to fabulousness. Sort it out Clooney.

Thus ends Day one. Off to church first thing tomorrow to pray for my soul and see Jaeha. His show kicks off at 9.30am on the hallowed ground of St. Mathews in The City. We'll be bringing you video footage of the show as well as anything else that catches our eye tomorrow, plus a blog of all of the highlights from Day two. Roll on Trelise in the Big Tent and Stolen Girlfriends madness to finish the night.

Pictured above: Nom*D's bride and big bowties at World. Photos / Martin Sykes

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