`A beer before dinner, madam?'

By TOM CLARKE

Beer has traditionally been the domain of men, but changing social attitudes means it is increasingly becoming a socially acceptable drink for women, says Nicki Stewart.

She is the new chief executive of the Beer, Wine and Spirits Council and has had more than 25 years in the hospitality industry.

She enjoys drinking beer, although not in great quantities, she says.

"I particularly like the premium beers, which have become quite acceptable for women to drink," she says.

"I still enjoy wines and I think most women do, but it certainly has become more of a trend and very acceptable now for women to drink beer.

"It's all part of a social change, and so it should, because women should be able to enjoy beer.

"The development of the cafe society and brunch becoming so popular, has all helped to encourage the change, which is all part of a better understanding of the role of beer in conjunction with food." Ms Stewart, who is a trained chef, says beer has an important role in cooking because it "does a lot for flavours." Carefully chosen, it complements food very well, she says.

Beer is often used as a marinade and is commonly added to meals such as casseroles in winter.

"I was at a tasting at the Viaduct Basin recently with the Chefs Association and we had a very nice lager with a salmon terrine which was just beautiful, and equally good was a very dark beer with an ostrich casserole which I hadn't tasted before," she says.

"I was very impressed and I think we'll have more beer being served with food, particularly with the premium beers now coming to the fore."

Ms Stewart believes the increasing popularity of wine, ready-to-drink mixes and premium bottled beer - along with changing social attitudes - is behind a recent decline in traditional beer sales.

In 1973 Ms Stewart became one of the first women to graduate as a chef from Cheltenham Catering College in England. That was followed by some years working through the various departments of the large European hotel chain, Trust House Forte. Then she joined a graphic design company where she became interested in administration and marketing.

In 1987 she came to New Zealand on holiday and stayed on.

She joined Quality Hotels and later worked in the brewing and hotel divisions of Wilson Neil in Dunedin.

That was followed by an appointment as head of the catering, hospitality and tourism department at Wellington Polytech.

She then spent a year in London as tourism and leisure programme coordinator with Westminster College.

She then returned to New Zealand and joined the Hospitality Standards Institute as chief executive, before taking up her present role.