Wine writer Bob Campbell fondly recalls some of his most spectacular dinner party disasters.
Auckland wine writer Bob Campbell recalls his favourite dinner party disasters - and picks .
There are few things in life more enjoyable than inviting friends to dinner and sharing great wine, food, conversation and laughter. From a spontaneous “chuck another snag on the barbie” to a pull-out-all-the-stops dinner party.
Perhaps my most spectacular dinner party disaster occurred while dining with two visiting American wine critics and several guests from the wine trade.
This called for a pull-out-all-the-stops effort. It was a chance to show off some special bottles of Kiwi wine and to match them with the best local foods.
To accommodate the group, we relocated the dining table and the large wrought-iron chandelier that hung above it. I must confess that moving chandeliers is not my forte, and I was in too much of a hurry to follow the advice of the genius behind the counter at our local Hammer Hardware.
The table was laden with our wedding-present silverware, the very best dinnerware and multiple wine glasses, including a new set of Jancis Robinson glasses ($85 each). The candles were lit, the guests seated, and the party was in great spirits.
There was a sudden, surreal moment of silence followed by an almighty crash as the chandelier detached itself from the ceiling, scoring a bullseye in the centre of our dining table. Everyone was glued to their seats in disbelief as the chandelier wiped out most of the dinner dishes and shattered every single glass. Thankfully, no one was injured and the wine emerged unscathed.
A disaster diverted. On another occasion, our large ginger cat, Rupert, ate the centre out of a salmon mousse while we joined our guests for drinks in an adjacent room. I discovered the mutilated mousse and was able to distract the attention of our guests while my wife reconfigured it into something that looked more like salmon than cat food. The compliments flowed, and a zesty sauvignon blanc was a perfect match.
One evening, we entertained a couple from France. They declared themselves to be wine enthusiasts but drank only French wine.
“New Zealand wine tastes like fruit juice,” they declared, although I gained the impression that they had tasted very few Kiwi wines. I was determined to change their minds, even if it meant sacrificing a few special bottles of the best local labels I could find.
I fired up the barbecue and opened the first couple of bottles: a Waiheke Te Motu cabernet sauvignon blend and a Martinborough Ata Rangi pinot noir that I planned to serve with a butterflied leg of lamb.
I was so intent on converting the tastes of our guests that I failed to notice the barbecue had run out of gas. Never mind, I dusted off my faithful old charcoal-fired Hibachi and turned my attention back to promoting New Zealand wine.
It was nearly midnight before I went inside with a platter of overcooked lamb. As I stepped into the house, I glanced back at the barbecue, which seemed to be giving off a lot of smoke. The veranda was on fire. Thankfully, we managed to put the fire out shortly before two fire engines arrived. On the bright side, our shaken guests now drink and enjoy Kiwi wine.
A do-not-try-this-at-home moment occurred during a Christmas dinner celebration organised for a group of anaesthetists. I was asked to demonstrate the art of sabrage when the champagne was served. During the Napoleonic era, cavalry soldiers (hussars) would use their sabres to open bottles of champagne by carefully removing the foil and cage, then locating the bottle seam and slicing upwards to remove the neck and cork. It is spectacular when it works well, but be aware that things can and do go wrong.
I demonstrated the art for the group. It went well until an enthusiastic fellow tried to repeat the demonstration on a second bottle. The bottle exploded. Fortunately, there were plenty of doctors in the house to attend to his minor lacerations.
One of my great joys is spending time choosing the wines and food I plan to serve. Once we have decided on the menu, and I have been given a budget, the game is on.
How to impress your guests without breaking the bank
SAUVIGNON BLANC
A popular choice and versatile food match, great with most seafood dishes.
Craggy Range Te Muna sauvignon blanc, Martinborough, 2024, $29.95
Intense, tangy, with cut grass, green capsicum, oyster shell, citrus and passionfruit flavours. A true thoroughbred.
Astrolabe Awatere Marlborough sauvignon blanc 2024, $30
Refined, intense mix of classic varietal flavours. Punchy wine in a style that is the envy of sauvignon blanc producers worldwide.
Durvillea Marlborough sauvignon blanc 2024, $15
Fresh, tangy, with a crisp, dry finish and flavours that suggest green apple, lime and white-fleshed nectarine. Mouth-watering wine for summer drinking.
PINOT GRIS
Growing in popularity, pinot gris is a smart choice that will put a smile on the face of most wine lovers. What’s not to like about a delicately fruity wine, often with just a whisper of sweetness.
Neudorf Home Block Moutere pinot gris 2024, $33
Lives up to its aromatic status with pure and pungent tree fruit flavours and a hint of spice.
Jules Taylor 2024 Marlborough pinot gris, $26
Flavoursome, beautifully balanced wine with refreshing acidity. Try it with blue cheese at the end of a meal.
CHARDONNAY
My desert island wine – perfect with seafood and deliciously dry with a juicy backbone of mouth-watering acidity. The best are truly stunning wines with an array of subtle flavours and a seductive, silken texture.
Blank Canvas Reed Vineyard 2024 Marlborough chardonnay, $65
High-energy chardonnay with hints of green apple, wet stone, peppery oak, nutty yeast and oyster shell flavours. A mix of purity and power that is absolutely delicious. A great match with oysters that have been seasoned with a squeeze of lime juice.
Main Divide 2024 chardonnay North Canterbury, $21.99
Rich, flavoursome wine with charred oak, sizzled butter, struck flint, nectarine and citrus flavours. Top value at this price.
SPARKLING WINE AND CHAMPAGNE
If you plan to lash out on Champagne, choose a label that your guests will recognise. Moet et Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Bollinger are all great choices. Buy just before Christmas to get the sharpest prices.
New Zealand makes excellent sparkling wine.
No 1 Family Estate Cuvee, $40 for a 750ml bottle; a magnum (equivalent to two bottles) of No 1 Family Assemblé is $95
A terrific bubbly for the relatively modest price, and my No 1 go-to.
ROSÉ
Chilled rosé is a wine for four seasons, making it a good choice for unexpected visitors. Appearance is important to me. I favour pale rosé with subtle flavours and a perfect balance of sweetness with delicate acidity supported by an ethereal texture.
Terra Sancta rosé Central Otago 2024, $31.45
Concentrated, with subtly succulent cherry and strawberry flavours. Rosé doesn’t get much better than this!
Neudorf Tiritiri Nelson rosé 2024, $25
Pale, pink-tinted, with subtle cherry, raspberry, and violet/floral characters. Fragrant wine that has clearly been made with a light touch. Dry without being too austere.
SYRAH
Typically more robust than pinot noir, yet lighter than blended reds, syrah is a safe choice, particularly when served with beef and lamb. Waiheke and Hawke’s Bay both produce stylish syrah, while the Hawke’s Bay sub-region of Gimblett Gravels gets my vote for quality and reliability.
Smith and Sheth CRU Heretaunga Hawke’s Bay 2023 syrah, $40
Elegant, vibrant cool-climate syrah with cassis, fresh herbs, wood smoke, white and black pepper and subtle, spicy oak. Trust me. This seriously impressive Gimblett Gravels wine will be a show-stopper at any dinner party.
Stonecroft Undressed 2023 Hawke’s Bay syrah, $33
“Undressed” refers to an unfined wine with no added sulphur. Smooth-textured, fleshy. Mellow, accessible Gimblett Gravels wine that’s ready to enjoy.
PINOT NOIR
A carefully chosen pinot noir will reward you with a wine of subtle complexity and great finesse. They will become a talking point at any dinner party. I have chosen three wines at different price points. They have one thing in common: deliciousness.
Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard 2024 Martinborough pinot noir, $64.95
A wine of power and purity with an explosion of floral, violet, black cherry, dark chocolate and pomegranate seed flavours. Terrific wine!
Mondillo 2023 Central Otago pinot noir, $55
Intensely fruity Bendigo wine with cassis-like depth of flavour and dark berry/cherry characters. Full-bodied, it will make a great match with rich red meat dishes.
Domaine Thomson Explorer Central Otago pinot noir 2023, $35
Dense, firmly structured and quite complex wine with dark cherry/berry, dark chocolate, fresh herb and subtle oak flavours. High-energy pinot noir that gives a nod in the direction of Burgundy.
Bob Campbell is a Master of Wine, and vice-president of the Circle of Wine Writers.