Wine: Valley of vines

Eradus, Yealands Estate and Vavasour. Photo / Supplied

Its swift flowing nature may have given Marlborough's Awatere River its name, but on my first wine trip to the valley the same could not be said for the traffic we joined waiting to cross the single-track bridge that once straddled it. Not so many years later I sped across the new two-lane structure and on through a wine region in which change has proved as rapid its river's waters.

Back in 1989 when Vavasour planted the first vines in the Awatere Valley, it was sheep rather than vines that largely populated this wild and windy place. Today vineyards are everywhere, as it has become the country's second largest wine region, overtaking Hawkes Bay in its vineyard area.

The big expansion occurred toward the latter part of the 1990s. This was in part due to the diminishing availability of land for vineyards in the Wairau Valley, where Marlborough's wines initially made their name. Land in this new viticultural frontier could also be bought more cheaply, which gave smaller players a chance to grow grapes in Marlborough, while its potential was also picked up on by larger companies keen to invest in some Awatere action.

With layers of river terraces sandwiched between the Wither Hills that separate it from the Wairau Valley to the north and the rugged Inland Kaikoura ranges to the south, the Awatere feels very different to its neighbouring valley. This also extends to its climate, which is more extreme; cooler, drier and windier.

It may be tougher to grow grapes here, but this is probably lending the Awatere's wines some of their characteristic intensity.

"The climatic conditions are harsher in the Awatere Valley than the Wairau and therefore the vines struggle a bit more," notes Peter Clark of Clark Estate. "As a result the berries are small and have thick skins, but are full of flavour."

Awatere wines have emerged as having their own distinctive style, often characterised by a flinty minerality and rapier-like acidity. They also tend to be a touch more restrained, with Awatere sauvignons displaying less upfront passionfruit notes and more herbaceous, tomato stalk and nettle characters.

Fans are often attracted by the freshness of Awatere wines, which, although possessing higher acidities than their Wairau cousins, are more often of a silky rather than searing nature. It's something that could be down to the climate, thinks Awatere resident and chief winemaker at Pernod Ricard NZ, Patrick Materman. He suggests that the sub-region's longer growing season could allow more time for their harsher malic acid to be transformed into a softer sort.

As many Marlborough sauvignons are blends from across the region, the greater proportion of Awatere fruit that is now being incorporated into these is impacting on the style of Marlborough sauvignon overall.

While the Wairau has been producing riper wines, the Awatere can add back the vibrant acidity and herbaceous notes that got the world hooked on the region's flagship grape.

It could be impacting on quality too, thinks Villa Maria's Jeremy McKenzie.

"Many of the top Marlborough sauvignon blancs coming from the region have an Awatere component in their blend," he observes. "We are big advocates of the Awatere and many of our top end renowned wines also come from here."

As Marlborough matures it's starting to promote the differences of its sub-regions. While many of its sauvignons will remain blends, there are enough sub regional wines to enable wine drinkers to start getting more specific.

If you've a preference for riper passion fruit filled examples, go for a Wairau. If you want something with more weight and texture, explore the Southern Valleys.

And if elegant and minerally styles get you salivating, opt for an Awatere.

AWATERE ACCOLADES

CHOICE GRIS
Eradus Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $18.99
With gris of this calibre, the Awatere is proving it can do well with more than just sauvignon. This creamy textured example has flavours suggestive of cinnamon sprinkled baked apples and pears in custard, nicely counterpoised by a crisp citrus mineral component. (From Wine Direct, Caro's, Liquorlands in Newmarket, Parnell & Mount Eden, Bacchus Wines, Nosh in Mount Eden & Greenlane.)

PURE CLASS
Yealands Estate Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $24.95
From the country's largest privately owned vineyard comes this great example of an Awatere sauvignon. Classic green aromas of tomato stalk, green capsicum, gooseberry and an exotic note of lemongrass lead to a palate that combines powerful ripe fruit with an exhilarating line of mineral and lime. (From Glengarry, Liquorland.)

PIONEERS' PINOT
Vavasour Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 $28-$30
Exuding Awatere freshness, this silky pinot noir from the region's pioneers possesses ripe and juicy cherry fruit, hints of licorice, spice, smoke and an attractive earthy undercurrent. (Stockists include Victoria Park & Remuera New Worlds.)