Wine: Review your wine spend

Krug Grande Cuvee, $299. Photo / Steven McNicholl

Tasting wine that you can't afford is one of the pleasures of the job. It doesn't happen often but it's usually a joyous and memorable occasion when it does.

And I suspect that even those whose budget per bottle is under $10 have at least a passing interest in something that transcends belief and want to know what all the fuss is about, why it's so expensive and is it really worth all that money?

In much the same way, I often read motoring journalists' reviews of new cars that are way beyond my orbit.

I'm extremely happy with and very attached to the family car, which we've owned since 1993. However, it doesn't stop me wondering whether the Aston Martin, Bentley or latest European leather-drenched marque with all the bells and whistles and high-tech specifications is worth the price of a three-bedroom home. Anecdotedly (and based on industry sales figures) there are roughly four price points for wine drinkers.

Under $10: no reviews necessary, driven by price, let your supermarket advertising be your guide.

Over $10 but under $20: some very good wines, usually whites, but look for bargains in reds from Italy, Chile, Argentina and Spain. Your friendly gate-keeping wine writer can be of assistance here. They get to try most of them so you don't have to.

$20 to $40: some serious stuff here with the higher prices for excellent pinot noir making this the most variable category, but look for smart Bordeaux blends, syrah and merlot often around $30.

Above that and you're a wine afficiando, complete wine snob or have received a hefty inheritance. Wine reviews are probably of cursory interest as you already know what you like, from whatever producer and where to get it. Dry River, Ata Rangi, Neudorf, Felton Road, Stonyridge, Te Mata, Hans Herzog, Providence, Bell Hill - all trip off the tongue with consummate ease, as does the ability to pay.

My most memorable tasting occasion over the last 12 months was a Krug dinner at Auckland's classy Clooney Restaurant. Krug is arguably the world's finest champagne and a selection, including the breathtaking Clos du Mesnil 1998, were matched with world class dishes. Price? You'll need to sell the Ferrari.

Recommended

Krug Grande Cuvee, $299
Entry level but aspirational, celebratory, sublime champagne. 100 per cent chardonnay grapes from a single 6ha vineyard site. Full-bodied, vibrant and almost a meal in itself. Finishes dry.

2009 Farnese Sangiovese, $18
From Italy's Abruzzo region and a producer renowned for great quality at buyer friendly prices. A trophy and medal winner, this is classy, smooth like a finely tuned Vespa, and is perfect with pizza, pasta or anything alfresco.