Wine: Presentation is key

Big Woop Red, Soho McQueen Couture Pinot Noir and Veuve Clicquot. Photo / Supplied

How we present ourselves says a lot about us to other people, and the same applies to how wines are presented to us, if the nakedly ambitious marketing of champagne, organic wines and pinot noirs I've seen recently is anything to go by.

When it's wearing the badge of Bio-Gro organic certification, a wine is expected by its makers to sell its socks off - as Two Gates Omahu, in last week's column, hopefully is. And when a bottle is labelled champagne, pinot noir or even "big woop", it is also expected to sell in a heartbeat.

Under normal circumstances, a wine called "big woop" would send me running in the opposite direction, but this one-litre shiraz is a top drop of dry red wine for a swift glass with dinner each night. And since truly dry reds from Australia at this price have become something of a rarity in a market saturated with cheap, sweet shiraz, dolled up as "dry" wine, this delivers on quality and price.

A new Central Otago pinot noir is more elegantly dressed by far, made to honour the late fashion designer, Alexander McQueen.

The wine is the 2008 Soho McQueen Couture Pinot Noir, which arrived on my doorstep half-consumed after a tasting - supplies are short but quality is high, thanks to winemaker Grant Taylor; one of this country's top pinot noir makers.

Taylor is better-known for winning the top gong from the International Wine Challenge in London for his 2000 Gibbston Reserve Pinot Noir. He has now planted his own grapes in Gibbston, from which he makes Valli Wines and this one-off bottle of liquid velvet.

Speaking of top wine experiences, champagne is never far from my mind. Fortunately it was close to my mouth, too, on the chilly morning of June 1 when six icy-cold bubblies were poured into tiny champagne flutes by the dapper visiting Frenchman, Francois Hautekeur. This former engineer loved wine so much he swapped careers to work for Veuve Clicquot.

This month he visited New Zealand to show how well old bottles of Veuve age when stored properly. My choicest bubbly was from 1990, but I'll happily settle for a glass of fresh, yeasty, pure-tasting liquid gold - Veuve Clicquot NV - any time. Like all champagnes, its price is a tad OTT, but this wine lives up to its good looks.

Wines of the week

Within your means: 2008 Big Woop Red, $19-$21
If the name hasn't instantly wooed you, the price, quality and quantity certainly will. This large litre bottle will keep you well-supplied for mid-winter all week long with its soft, juicy red plum flavours in a bone-dry style. Available from Duff and Finns in Pukekohe and La Barrique stores in Auckland, phone (09) 638 5000.

Try it: 2008 Soho McQueen Couture Pinot Noir, $50
One of my favourite gifts was a handmade dish with OOTI ("only one, that's it") engraved on the back, which could also apply to this limited-edition wine created to commemorate the late Alexander McQueen's unconventional fashion style. Winemaker Grant Taylor has made this silky, soft-as-a-velvet-pillow pinot noir, capturing black cherry flavours which linger with every sip.

The splurge: Veuve Clicquot, $84
Each whiff reminds me of fluffy, freshly baked bread. And each fresh sip smells like a cool champagne cellar, with its crisp coolness and exotic, yeasty aromas.