Wine: Lured Downunder

Still they come. Men and women with vision, courage, zeal and determination. They have a dream of creating a vineyard in a piece of picture postcard paradise and producing a fine wine that will shake the very foundations of established wine elites.

They ought to be applauded for their enthusiasm and idealism. Just as a hefty percentage of New Zealand vineyards are currently for sale or teetering on the brink of foreclosure, around every corner there appear those willing to take a chance.

Often they are from Britain or the United States and, having done their homework, are not deterred by the hovering dark clouds over our wine industry. They bring either impeccable credentials and an established track record, or are looking for a challenge and complete change of life. They embrace winemaking with the sort of Damascus Rd epiphany that was such a vibrant part of the New Zealand wine industry a couple of decades ago. Bless 'em.

Into this firmament comes Californian winemaker Ted Lemon and American owner-partner Marquis Sauvage.

Says Lemon, "I worked for four years in Burgundy and was the first American to be hired there for viticulture and winemaking, so my training is French." He has a clear understanding of what his team wants to do in Central Otago and the challenges ahead.

"We want to bring a European sensibility to these different soil types. We believe terroir exists, we started the project in 2002. Our first release is 2009, we're dedicated to going slowly."

Part of the appeal for these new kids on the block was in developing the Burn Cottage site from scratch. Says Lemon, "A huge part of making fine wine is to control your own destiny."

There are strong links to the area. Felton Road winemaker, Blair Walter, is an old friend and winemaker Claire Mulholland, formerly at Martinborough and Amisfield, has just come on board as future winemaker and general manager. The estate is biodynamically farmed and soil health and vitality are seen as key components to the quality of the vines.

The wine is as distinctive as the label, which is based on a fairy tale. It's a fairy-tale start for another New Zealand pinot destined for greatness.

Recommended

2009 Burn Cottage Vineyard Pinot Noir, $55
Unbelievably good, especially if you love pinot with a European sensibility. It has wonderful nose and is complex, earthy, dense and very moreish. Only 550 cases.

2009 Amisfield Dry Riesling, $30
A legacy of Mulholland's time at the excellent Lake Hayes winery. This is a wonderfully balanced wine with vibrant lemon and lime flavours, and that dancing delicacy that refined rieslings can deliver.