NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
    • The Great NZ Road Trip
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • Deloitte Fast 50
    • Generate wealth weekly
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Lifestyle

Wine: Finding the perfect match

Jo Burzynska
NZ Herald·
18 Sep, 2010 05:30 PM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save
    Share this article
Isabel Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $20-$22. Photo / Babiche Martens

Isabel Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $20-$22. Photo / Babiche Martens

A scale for pinot gris would help both consumers and winemakers.

New Zealand's love affair with pinot gris has seen plantings of the variety in our vineyards blossom, increasing by close to 1000 per cent over the past decade. However, the huge array of styles in which the variety is made can make buying a bottle feel more like a blind date than a rendezvous with an intimate amour when it comes to judging just what you're going to get.

Granted, styles of local gris have settled down. Once upon a time even the same producer could produce something rich, soft and sweet one year, and the very next vintage, makes it dry and zesty. Most are generally now gently off-dry, although when it comes to weight and intensity there's still considerable variation.

In an attempt to give wine drinkers a better idea of a pinot gris style, the Australian Wine Research Institute in collaboration with some of Australia's leading wine companies, has developed the PinotG Style Spectrum. Using spectral analysis to indicate the concentration of different key components, the scale defines wines from crisp to luscious and will shortly be appearing on the labels of selected Aussie examples.

Confusion over the many faces of gris is certainly not specific to New Zealand. In Italy, under the name of pinot grigio, a lighter fresher style is the norm, while Alsace's examples tend to be more voluptuous and intense. However, even within these countries, there can still be significant stylistic differences. And in Australia, producers are labelling their examples as both gris and grigio to further complicate matters.

There's already been something comparable created for riesling, the International Riesling Foundation's Riesling Taste Profile, which is used by a number of New Zealand wineries. This defines the wine's style through an equation that takes into account the play between a wine's acidity and sweetness.

A similar scale for gris is something some key New Zealand producers of the variety would welcome.

"We contacted the riesling scale owners asking if we could use it for other aromatics," says Spy Valley's Blair Gibbs, who was told that it was solely for riesling.

"I think the same system on all wines that have the potential to carry a wide range of different levels of sweetness would make for far better consumer understanding."

"The scale is a great idea," says Jeremy McKenzie of Villa Maria. His company has already embraced the Riesling Taste Profile on its labels. "Just as the International Riesling scale is gaining momentum and aiding consumer decision for 'dry vs sweet' riesling, it would be timely for a similar 'crisp/dry versus rich' scale to be utilised for pinot gris/grigio. Or alternatively, a scale with parameters such as residual sugar and acidity could allow winemakers to label their wine 'dry' to enable distinction between styles."

However, not everyone is convinced by this format. "I think scales and numbers aren't effective with consumers," says major Marlborough wine consultant, Matt Thomson. "A name associated with a style is easier for consumers to embrace."

Just what appropriate terms could be for gris is open to debate: the way wineries are describing their versions of the variety currently shows very little consistency. Rich is sometimes used to imply sweetness, but could also suggest concentration in drier examples. And, as witnessed by the heated discussions that have raged around the riesling scale, many wineries are reticent of mentioning the "s" word, fearful that though many consumers drink wine with a bit of sweetness, being explicit could potentially put people off.

It's something of a conundrum. However a scale, or simply more accurate descriptions of style, would mean more gris buyers are likely to find matches made in heaven rather than risking a liaison with the unknown - something that should keep the romance with the variety very much alive.

STYLISH SELECTION

GREAT GRIS DEBUT
Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $29
Following the release of the impressive first sauvignon blanc from ex-Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd's new label, comes this equally exciting pinot gris. Concentrated, creamy textured and with a touch of sweetness, it juxtaposes rich notes of ripe pear and spice with a citrusy mineral undertone. Top stuff. (From Glengarry, Fine Wine Delivery Company.)

REAL BEAUTY
Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hills Pinot Gris 2009 $23.95
Another delicious debut is this inaugural pinot gris from North Canterbury newcomers, Mt Beautiful. Made in a decidedly Alsatian style, it's a richly textured, fresh and off dry example with concentrated flavours of spiced baked quince. (From La Barrique, La Vino, Bacchus Cellars, Mairangi Bay Fine Wines, Glengarry, Liquorland, Advintage.)

GRIGIO STYLE
Isabel Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 $20-$22
At the other end of the style spectrum is this lighter, dry and citrusy example. With its notes of crisp apple, fennel and fresh minerally core, it feels more grigio than gris. (From fine wine retailers and isabelestate.com)

Discover more

Lifestyle

Wine: Questions of taste

06 Sep 05:30 PM
Telecommunications

Online wine: La Vinotheque

12 Sep 05:30 PM
Lifestyle

Wine: Experience shows

09 Sep 05:30 PM
Lifestyle

Wine: Liguid gold

15 Sep 05:30 PM
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Save
    Share this article

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
Lifestyle

Five easy weeknight dinner ideas - from tofu to steak, chicken and fish

14 Sep 07:00 PM
Lifestyle

Misread smear test: Real estate agent’s cancer diagnosis delayed by a year

14 Sep 05:00 PM
Premium
Lifestyle

Your oral microbiome could hold the key to brain health - here’s how to test it

14 Sep 06:00 AM

Sponsored

Sponsored: Invite nature in - but not winter

13 Sep 07:21 PM
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Lifestyle

Premium
Premium
Five easy weeknight dinner ideas - from tofu to steak, chicken and fish
Lifestyle

Five easy weeknight dinner ideas - from tofu to steak, chicken and fish

New York Times: Not sure what to cook this week? We've got you covered.

14 Sep 07:00 PM
Misread smear test: Real estate agent’s cancer diagnosis delayed by a year
Lifestyle

Misread smear test: Real estate agent’s cancer diagnosis delayed by a year

14 Sep 05:00 PM
Premium
Premium
Your oral microbiome could hold the key to brain health - here’s how to test it
Lifestyle

Your oral microbiome could hold the key to brain health - here’s how to test it

14 Sep 06:00 AM


Sponsored: Invite nature in - but not winter
Sponsored

Sponsored: Invite nature in - but not winter

13 Sep 07:21 PM
NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP