Wine: Fighting for attention

Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2009, $85. Photo / Paul Estcourt

Gisborne, a bit like Wairarapa, has to make a lot of noise to get noticed. Geographically it's not top-of-mind. Although both are charming destinations, as wine-producing regions they are overshadowed by the big boys - Marlborough, Hawkes Bay and Central Otago. Fighting for attention are those second-tier locations, including North Auckland and Northland, Canterbury and Nelson. Within these broad parameters lie those cute sub-regions or boutique areas, as they like to be known, of Matakana, Waiheke Island, Clevedon, Waipara, Waitaki, etc.

Gisborne has a chequered reputation as a wine region and in the past probably relied too heavily on one major producer whose fluctuating fortunes can impact heavily on the area. But as they say, "you pays your money and you takes your chances".

A number of established smaller producers have created some great wines with astonishing regularity and garnered for themselves considerable reputations.

Millton Vineyard would be the standout, with support from the impressive relative newcomer, Brunton Rd. They recently acquired the legendary - and at one stage languishing - Matawhero. Also New Zealand wine royalty, Nick Nobilo, whose outstanding world class Vinoptima Ormond gewurztraminer has added to Gisborne's reputation for beautiful aromatic white wines.

But it's chardonnay on which Gisborne has mainly hung its hat, with its big tropical and citrus flavours, fragrant gentle textures and mouth-filling loveliness. No wonder, then, that for the last 10 years Gisborne has hosted an International Chardonnay Challenge.

In reality, most of the entries come from Australasia and, as competition director Prue Younger observes, "All wines are tasted blind, so reputations count for nothing."

The number of entries for a single variety is impressive and depending on the year can be somewhere between 400 and 520 chardonnays vying for elusive golds.

Master of Wine Jane Skilton has been chairwoman of the competition for eight years. Judges include prominent wine writers, professional palates and esteemed winemakers from throughout Australasia.

They have tough, high expectations for what makes gold and it's pleasing to see awards are not tossed around like lollies.

RECOMMENDED

Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2009, $85
According to the judges, the standout wine of the challenge. It's a beauty, fine, sharp and elegant with a precision and lightness that must be savoured to be understood.

Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $33
One of a handful of New Zealand chardonnays to secure gold. From the prolific Marlborough Saint Clair family estate. It is big and brassy with loads of toastiness and creamy flavours of ripe, peachy fruit. It has minimal oak.