Wine: A taste of grace

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut NV, $80. Photo / Sarah Ivey

It defies the recession. It may not be selling in such large quantities but neither is it likely to be recklessly sold at ridiculous discount prices.

It is French Champagne, that celebratory and evocative wine that is surrounded with more mystery and tradition than any other wine style. The Romans originally planted grape vines in the Champagne region, where the soil is relatively infertile yet manages to produce high-quality wine. Over many centuries the Catholic Church nurtured their development and, over time, the fame of the region's wines were widespread.

But up until the 17th century, the product was a still wine, not sparkling.

One of the earliest Champagne houses was Veuve Clicquot, established in 1772. Centuries later the distinctive yellow label is one of the world's most recognised trademarks.

As Francois Hautekeur, Veuve Clicquot's senior winemaker for the last six years, told me at a tasting recently, "Our yellow label is instantly recognisable and we want the wine to be identical every year. We're going for a consistent style, so it's usually the same blend. Any change comes from vintage age rather than winemaking style."

Hautekeur was previously a mechanical engineer and brings the meticulous precision required there to his new winemaking adventure.

"We launch less vintage Champagne than other Houses because we're very severe on ourselves. You are ultimately judged by the Champagnes you make in non-vintage years, it reflects the taste of the House, so it has to be excellent."

And what makes a great Champagne? "It's very subjective. Fortunately Veuve Clicquot is my style - vinous, complex, with a wide range of aromas and, of course, providing pleasure." In the course of blind tasting a number of Veuve Clicquot yellow labels, the assembled "skilled" tasters are poured a flute and must guess what year it is from.

No one comes close. Most of us think it is somewhere around 15-25 years old. The wine has a slight yellowing of colour, indicating age, but the bubbles are still intact and the taste is a tad sour, almost slightly vinegary but in no way detracting from the pleasantness. After pooling wisdom and opinion, we are all astonished to discover the Champagne is from 1953. It has aged gracefully, impervious to change.

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Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut NV, $80
Entry-level for a top French Champagne House. Impeccable credentials and a strong international following. Pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay produce an intense, well-balanced, fresh and fruity style. All class.

Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV, $35
Has had strong links with Veuve Clicquot for many years and delivers the same quality standards, at a significantly lower price. Refined, elegant, nutty and lots of racy bubbles. Excellent buying.