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Home / Lifestyle

White, Hilton, Princes Wharf

By Ewan McDonald
3 Jul, 2007 04:59 PM4 mins to read

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The seared duck breast was light but full of flavour. Photo / Babiche Martens

The seared duck breast was light but full of flavour. Photo / Babiche Martens

Herald rating: 3 and a half out of 5

KEY POINTS:

He said: Bridget, it's been weeks.

She said: Sorry, who's calling? This number seems to have fallen out of my phone.

He said: Moving right along. The Lady Editor wants to know what's happening on the waterfront. Cocktails. Elegance. Sophistication. Je ne sais quoi. And of course I
thought of you.

He said: I can't understand why the parking machine wouldn't take my Visa.

She said: I can. So we had to leave the Alfa in the ludicrously expensive area near the lobby instead of the merely extortionate a bit further down the wharf.

He said: Did you layer? It's all very white and hard surfaces and big windows can get chilly.

She said: It's Auckland. Of course I layer.

Waitress: Would you like cocktails?

She said: Are you going to record every exchange? Shouldn't you just move right along to the food? Mind you, these rolls are rather bland. Though the butter is delish.

He said: It's a treat to be offered butter these days. I expect the Food Police to appear over our shoulders at any minute. Cold night, fancy something rustic to start. Yes, wild rabbit tart, minted pea puree, pickled red cabbage and smoked paprika syrup.

Every dish comes with a wine suggestion, so I will. Pity you're driving ... Bridgie, could you try a morsel because I think it's scorched.

She said: Definitely a tad too well done. Perhaps it lost something in the re-heating?

He said: And your crayfish bisque?

I know you were worried it might be too much for a starter.

She said: I could have this every night. It's beautiful. Very light, just as the waitress said. Not like a chowder, just a light, strained, seafood soup.

He said: Check out this trio of lamb. The cutlet is coated with harissa, the sweetbreads are seared in salt and pepper sweetbreads, and the noisette is braised. Love lamb, like the chef's bravado in putting this on his menu. Ooh, yum, carrot puree. Oh dear.

She said: Problem?

He said: Well, the puree is a tad watery. And the cutlet is not so much seared as incinerated. It's grey inside. I've been to barbecues where ...

She said: Yes, we all have. Try my duck. So often, it's too rich but all these flavours are wonderful, they keep it light.

Lurrrve this beetroot custard. Have you tried the salad? I wish I had room to eat it all. Leaves and pear and blue cheese and walnut. Although, why can restaurants never get walnuts in and shell them themselves? Do people know what a fresh walnut tastes like?

He said: Dessert?

She said: Oh, look. We can have a tasting platter of all six.

He said: I'll start at the feijoa creme brulee, you start at the bombe alaska, and I'll meet you meet at the passionfruit souffle.

She said: What about the Valrhona chocolate cheesecake?

He said: We'll fight about that later. Have you tried this saucy little thing? It's ... um [consults menu] lemon and myrtle. Don't think I've ever seen myrtle on a menu in Auckland.

It's rather smoky and interesting. So, your thoughts on White?

She said: You're a little grumpy tonight. I must have got the pick of the bunch because I enjoyed it all ... oh, maybe apart from the fig tart dessert thing.

The service was fab. I love the lighting. And it didn't feel cold, despite it being so white.

He said: Grumpy? Maybe. Two of my three courses were overdone, the carrot puree was tasteless and the main - interesting idea, not well cooked, or maybe too well cooked - didn't hang together as a meal.

At $20 for an entree and $37 for a main, the French Cafe or Cibo or O'Connell Street would knock my socks off.

White, Hilton

Address: Hilton, Princes Wharf
Phone: (09) 978 2000
Web: www.whiterestaurant.co.nz

Open: Dinner 7 days (lunch currently closed)
Cuisine: Contemporary
From the menu: Seared scallops, Israeli couscous and fennel risotto, baby rocket, sauce vierge $12; Coriander crusted snapper, cauliflower puree, pickled rhubarb, citrus and tomato salsa $37; Malibu and coconut ice cream, roasted pineapple, polenta cake, Italian meringue $16

Vegetarian: Own menu!
Wine: We like the recommendations

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