When less is more

Edenvale Shiraz. Photo / Richard Robinson

There has been a shift away from what has commonly been referred to as blockbuster, head-banging, high-alcohol wines. This is usually aimed at red wines but white wine can fall into this category as well, just not as often.

The finger is often pointed at some Australian reds, notably shiraz, as well as some Californian wines, zinfandel being the most frequent culprit. These jammy beasts tend to elbow out the competition in the pursuit of awards. It's like this: at blind tastings and wine competitions, concentration, depth, extraction and big alcohol will almost inevitably outscore subtlety, balance and finesse. They are show ponies. They stand tall and stand out.

Some winemakers are accused of deliberately manufacturing wines like this merely to garner awards - the fact they're high-alcohol, often almost undrinkable and impossible with food is of no consequence.

A gold sticker and "96 out of 100" from international wine commentator Robert Parker, who has tended to favour the robust rock'n' rollers is all that matters. Into the ferment (sort of) comes an award-winning alcohol-removed wine - fewer calories, no hangover, ideal for pregnant or nursing mothers, professionals on-call or non-drinkers in a restrained celebratory mood.

Edenvale's winemakers claim 30 per cent fewer calories per glass and high levels of antioxidants. It's a naturally fermented wine product derived wholly from grapes. The beverage then undergoes a process to remove the alcohol from the base wine with a minimum effect on the wine's natural profile and taste. There are three wines in the range: shiraz, chardonnay and sparkling cuvee.

All front labels bear the phrase "alcohol removed". A closer look at the back labels contains the following note: "This alcohol-removed wine contains less than 0.5 per cent alcohol by volume a level similar to that found in natural fruit juices."

Smart idea. Smart price.

Recommended

Edenvale Sparkling Cuvee
Winner of Australian Food Challenge Award for best non-alcoholic beverage in 2007. South-eastern Australian grapes. Crisp, good fruit structure and balance.
Price: $12

Edenvale Shiraz
Winner of Australian Food Challenge Award for best non-alcoholic beverage in 2007. Deep rich colour and lots of ripe plummy flavours. Tending dry. Could be gently chilled.
Price: $12