KEY POINTS:
LONDON - A potent cocktail of politics and rock 'n' roll received loud applause at Vivienne Westwood's first London show in nine years today.
No stranger to controversy, the doyenne of British fashion sent the opening model strutting down the runway in Guantanamo-orange underpants emblazoned with the slogan
"Fair Trial My Arse".
While the freebie bags at most fashion shows overbrim with make-up and sweets, Westwood's offered petitions and charitable donation forms.
"We need a whole change in ethic, otherwise we really are heading for disaster," said the iconic designer, who often peppers her shows with political messages.
Westwood said that in order to focus on her cultural manifesto, she had handed over the designing reigns of her Red Label collection to a trusted advisor.
Westwood, who first came to public prominence in the 1970s with her bondage-inspired and safety-pin-laden creations for the Sex Pistols, said her autumn-winter Red Label collection owed much to the punk era.
Microskirts and minidresses were worn with knee-high leather boots, while animal spiral cuts gave the clothes a wild look.
"The look is rock 'n' roll and although inspired by the 70's is definitely about now. It's about modern girls going out and painting the town red," read the notes accompanying the show.
While Westwood will continue to show her first line, the Gold Label, in Paris, she told reporters on Thursday she would like to continue to show Red Label in London.
"Vivienne Westwood is my hero ... she's amazing and she looks so amazing," 25-year-old designer Krystof Strozyna, who showed for the first time at London Fashion Week on Tuesday, said.
Another British designer to return will be Graeme Black on Friday, after a 15-year sojourn in Italy and stints at both Giorgio Armani and Ferragamo.
The comeback of these celebrated designers has increased the heat about London Fashion Week, which is enjoying a resurgence thanks to upcoming designers Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab and Christopher Kane -- all hotly tipped by fashion editors.
From politics to witchcraft
Earlier, Luella Bartley recreated a rural fantasy world complete with pixie hats and witch dresses.
The British designer, returning to London for the second season in a row, told Reuters television ideas for the outfits came from her home in Cornwall, southwest England and visits to a witchcraft museum.
"I wanted to keep that cartoonish element that is the Luella character, that sugary, cute element, but make it sicker, darker, with a bit more horror," Bartley said.
High-waisted trousers vied with short dresses and bell-style layered skirts in colours progressing from girly peach to gothic black.
London Fashion Week opened on February 10 and closes on February 15 after nearly 60 designers have shown their autumn-winter collections.
- REUTERS