TriBeCa

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

It's not easy getting into TriBeCa, We spent a good five minutes peering in windows on the Parnell Road side of the restaurant and wondering whether we
dared try the double french doors, which would have forced us to squeeze past fully laden tables. We didn't take the dare.

Circling the brick building, we arrived at the true entrance, only to be confused by its casual appearance - you get a glimpse of the kitchen on the way to the dining room - but were finally seated at a comfortable little table nestled under a row of sepia portraits of handsome Native Americans.

Having chosen a bottle of excellent sauvignon blanc (St ClairMarlborough, $40), we were swallowed up by the menu, which offered an intriguing selection of dishes with European and Eastern influences - and long lists of ingredients.

After careful study, I ordered the fried oysters ($16), which arrived coated in polenta crumbs, with a generous dollop of lemon aioli for dipping. Delicious. I especially enjoyed the crunchy coating on my oysters, devoid of the oil which often clings to fried fish. And it must be said, as I am a greedy dipper, I was
delighted not to run out of sauce before I got through my oysters.

Tim's roast duck tartlet ($18) was the evening's prettiest dish, but tasted bland. Pieces of tender bird were piled inside a biscuit-type shell and topped with fine curls of crimson beetroot. A chive-infused sauce was drizzled around the outside of the plate, but the duck missed out on flavouring.

The mains, too, were of mixed quality. The veal ($31) came in three bullet-shaped pieces, beautifully wrapped in a layer each of spinach and prosciutto. In the centre, a mound of corn custard provided a sweet contrast. Unfortunately, the gravy was far too salty, overpowering the delicate meat, and the custard,
nice as it was, did not seem to be the right accompaniment. A small dish of roast garlic potatoes ($7), served on the side, was more successful.

The hapuka ($28), served with bamboo shoots and tomato and swimming in a puddle of lemon-grass broth, did not look particularly inspiring, but was probably the evening's tastiest dish. The delicate fish, cooked to perfection, picked up the broth's flavour but was not taken over by it.

At this point we were rather full but, in the interests of research, pushed on to the sweets. The tiramisu ($11) was divine - light and creamy with a soft crumbly base which seemed to have been soaked in something alcoholic. Tim's passionfruit custard tart ($11) was lovely to behold, but he was crestfallen when he realised he had ended up with two tarts in one night. Despite his poor ordering, he heroically finished every last morsel, including the candied pistachios around the edge of the dish.

TriBeCa is a warm and comfortable place to dine, but lacks a certain spark. The waitstaff are pleasant and quick to help without being manic, which is a
definite plus. It's fair to say the food is very good without being great. There are restaurants in Auckland in the same price bracket which do a much better
job. The highlight of my night was not the food, but spotting a fellow diner wearing a cravat. That rarely happens.

Cost: Meal for two, including wine, $162

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.