KEY POINTS:
Gwynn hadn't eaten red meat for a decade. So it was odd that she called me one day and said she craved a steak. Funny, I thought, here was a committed vegetarian and, for the past couple of years, a dedicated Ayurvedic practitioner.
But her strict eating regimen was driving her nuts. So we booked at Tony's in Lorne St where I'd heard they did a mean steak.
Tony's turned out to be a well-oiled machine and clearly a popular spot on a Saturday night - so much so they'd sold out of fish by 7.30.
Our very attentive French waiter (a student on his travels, as it turned out) thought it an excellent idea that Gwynn was going to give a steak a whirl. I suggested that as she was going the whole er, hog, she might want to try one of my six oysters ($12).
"They're slimy, aren't they?" she said nervously in anticipation. But she was game and nearly made it all the way but was grateful for a napkin. The nice waiter didn't blink an eye when she gave it to him.
Gwynn's caesar salad, sans bacon ($16) was fine but we thought rather overdressed (same with my side salad later) with a very vinegary dressing. A third entree of garlic and cheese bread ($3.50) was excellent.
The waiter presented our steaks with a flourish, playing his part in Gwynn's special occasion. And with all the gusto of a true carnivore she tucked in to a scotch fillet dipped in herbs and breadcrumbs and topped with grated parmesan cheese ($28.50).
"You have to chew it really well, don't you?" she said, clearly relishing it. She'd asked for it medium rare but after a few mouthfuls it was proving to be quite rare and sent it back for another turn on the grill. Sizzling hard, it came back a few minutes later for take two. Gwynn was so enjoying it, she thought she might even finish the whole thing - all 200g of it. (Tony's steaks also come in 330g.)
My eye fillet topped with shrimps and a scallop ($32.50) was tender and perfectly medium rare, although 200g was way too big and one small dog enjoyed a very posh breakfast the next morning.
In the end, Gwynn was defeated by the size of her steak and reluctantly left about a third, but said it had definitely cured her craving although she didn't think she'd return to being a carnivore.
She did, however, want to indulge what turned out to be a very sweet tooth. I'm always amazed just how much pudding a full puku can cope with. Our sweet waiter raised his eyebrows only slightly when we ordered three desserts: a fabulous, chocolate sundae with berries, a very caramelly ginger pudding and a to-die-for chocolate mousse with chocolate icecream ($10 each).
The walk home probably worked off only the garlic bread - but the whole thing was worth it.
Tony's is not a posh eatery, but it knows what it wants to do well and simply gets on and does it.
Where: 32 Lorne St, City
The wine: From $80 for a bottle of Pol Roger to their house Willowglen chardonnay or shiraz cabernet ($6.50 a glass or $26 a bottle).
Our meal: $142 for three entrees, two mains, three desserts, four soft drinks and one hot chocolate.
Verdict: A reliable steak house that sticks to its knitting.
Out of 10
Food: 7
Service: 9
Value: 8
Ambience: 8
