The Yacht Club

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

We've all done it, it's been an Auckland sport for years. You try to think of a place to go, usually on a sunny Sunday morning round about brunchtime and you can't, so you whinge that the City of Sails has nowhere you can sit, sip and snack and look at the boats without a road getting in the way. You end up fighting your way to a table in the same cafe on Ponsonby Rd that you went to last weekend.

Not fair, not true. There are now several spots, they're not all on the Viaduct, and you don't always have to take out a second mortgage on the apartment or trade the Audi to pay for a less-than-ordinary benedict.

Sails, of course, near the Harbour Bridge end of the Westhaven marina, and for the past couple of years, the Yacht Club, down at Pier 21, next to Orams Marine. The two have much more in common than a view of masts and hulls: both concentrate on seafood (go figure) and both do a mean beer-battered fish'n'chips; both are much-loved by corporate cardholders, particularly at those Friday lunches that stretch into "we might as well stay for dinner"; and both are in the hands of experienced restaurateurs. John Lewis, commodore of the Yacht Club with his wife Kari, can put "Ramses" and "Cibo" on his CV and know that the reference checks will stand up.

Fashioned from a modern commercial building rather than the character sites that most restaurant designers crave, it's fair to say that the maritime-themed room is probably not the most stylish-looking in town - until you glimpse the paved, stepped piazza that gives out on to the boats and berths. Obviously that's more of a benefit in jollier boating weather than we have at present.

On a winter evening, head chef Jean-Luc Bonedeau's menu offers all the usual suspects from the fish market, presented in the finest traditions of the Pacific Rim. Among the entrees his tempura prawns come with peanut and lime, green chilli coriander and aioli dipping sauce; the scallops are sauteed, served with a risotto cake, rocket salad and salsa verde. Among his mains, the chef roasts kingfish and accompanies it with a layered potato cake, mushroom, tomato compote, leeks and tarragon jus; the snapper fillet sits atop a corn-spring onion cake and a tomato-watercress salad with chilled mango dressing.

With four at the table, we ate a pretty good range of the dishes. Two thoroughly enjoyed their entrees, the land-based dishes of panfried veal liver and crispy salted pork belly; my field mushrooms, roasted with kikorangi cheese, was ordinary; the only seafood entree - squid, stuffed with choritzo sausage and barbecued, wilted watercress and chili oil - tasted distinctly odd to a discerning palate.

Second round, and the winner was: surprise, not the signature dish of fish'n'chips, tarakihi in beer batter, tempura - "frankly disappointing," said the chooser, but the "very good" kingfish dish. "The fish, but not the frisson" summed up our meals.

The wine list is not extensive but has quality vintages at good prices; the service was friendly and efficient, though only four tables were occupied. We've eaten in near-empty restaurants several times in the past few weeks. What's happening? Have you all become soccer fans, staying home to watch the World Cup?

Open: 7 days, closed Sunday night, Lunch: Sunday to Friday, Dinner: Monday-Saturday

Food: Pacific Rim

Owners: John and Kari Lewis

Head Chef: Jean-Luc Bonedeau

Smoking: Yes, in defined area, Bar separate from dining room

Wine: Small, discerning list; good prices

Noise: Classic hits of the 60s and 70s

Cost (mains for two): $50-$ 56

Vegetarian: Entrees, oui. Mains, non . . . ask the chef

Bottom line: For years Aucklanders have whinged that the City of Sails hasn't had a place where you can sit, sip and snack and look at the yachts without a road getting in the way. Here's one, even though it's not the jolliest boating weather. The roasted kingfish with layered potato cake, mushroom, tomato compote, tarragon jus and leeks ($26) is worth catching.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.