The Style Council

Karen Inderbitzen-Waller. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

While those invited to the designers' shows at Fashion Week are out front taking their seats by the runway to peruse the pretties their goodie-bags have to offer, out the back it's a kind of controlled panic.

Half-naked models are scrambling into frocks, hairdressers gossiping, assistants ironing last-minute alterations, producers shouting and dressers trying to figure out which necklace goes with what hat.

Then, through the middle of this relative pandemonium, they come.

The stylist. An oasis of style. Cool, calm and always collected.

These are the creative people employed by designers to put their clothing together in an innovative and exciting way just for the runway shows.

Besides knowing exactly how a garment should be worn and with what, stylists also always have an inimitable, intrinsic fashion sense of their own. They work on the show before, during and after everyone else has come and gone.

During Fashion Week there's a handful of local stylists whose lives become very busy indeed.

Throughout the day they'll be behind the scenes ensuring the collections are seen at their best, then later on they'll be seen sitting in the audience looking their personal best.

So how does their wardrobe cope with going from work straight to some of the most glamorous and best-dressed functions we see in a season?

We ask four Auckland stylists about their working wardrobes and what is appropriate to wear to a fashion show.

KARLYA SMITH

Karlya Smith is an Auckland freelance stylist who is working on shows for Angela Lewis and Insidious Fix.

Your working wardrobe when you're backstage?

Usually I go with jeans or trousers with a tidy top and a flat shoe. The jeans I'm wearing a lot lately are Helmut Lang. The stretch in them means they can fit tightly but I can still bend over to do up models' shoes.

The tidy top is so I'm not the scruffiest person at the after-show drinks, and the flat shoe is so that I can make it through the day and still be able to walk when I head off to other shows later.

And when you're sitting in the front row?

If it's during the day, then probably fitted trousers or jeans with a jacket and low heels. If it's an evening show then I'll wear a frock, probably by Mala Brajkovic, and high heels.

If someone came to me for advice on what to wear to a fashion show, I'd say spend as much as you can on heels. And if you want to avoid an embarrassing outfit double-up, then wear something vintage.

What's the biggest mistake the public make when planning what to wear to a Fashion Week show?

Wearing something from a local designer in a bold print that's available in the stores. Last year, at almost every show I went to one or more people were sporting the Karen Walker maple-leaf print dress.

What shows are you looking forward to?

Little Brother, because when I visited the workroom recently I saw the accessories that they're using and now I can't wait to see the clothes that go with them. Also I'm a fan of both designer Murray Crane and stylist Karen Inderbitzen-Waller's work.

I'm also looking forward to Zambesi, Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester and Nom*D, because they're always good shows and full of clothes I want to wear.

ALICE RYCROFT

Alice Rycroft is a veteran of the local fashion industry. Although she usually works on several shows at Fashion Week, this year she's chosen to prepare just one local label's collection, Sabatini, for runway shows in Paris, France and then Australia. She will also be going to shows as fashion editor of the Herald's weekend magazine canvas.

Your working wardrobe when you're backstage?

Something comfortable that you're not going to ruin - because you spend a lot of time on your knees putting on models' shoes or adjusting clothes. I've made that mistake before. I wore my favourite silk blouse on a shoot and forgot how quickly you have to move sometimes. It ripped underneath the arms.

One thing I always wear is my Michiko Koshino waistcoat. I've had it for10 years and it's been on every shoot. It's got lots of little pockets so I can carry everything I need - like scissors and pins - without needing a bag. I'm also a little wary of really low-rise jeans because they give you builder's bum when you bend down to work on something. Basically, I think you need clothes designed for action.

And when you're sitting in the front row?

The most important thing when you're in the front row is to have some decent shoes. It's the one thing people always check out. And if you're in the front row your shoes get caught on camera, too. So if you were going to make an effort it should be in footwear - everything else is just a bonus.

What's the biggest mistake the public make when planning what to wear to a Fashion Week show?

Not venturing out of black.

What shows are you looking forward to?

Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester, because they're the big ones who don't have a well-established style. And any young, up-and-coming designers.

CHRIS LORIMER

Auckland-based stylist Chris Lorimer, who runs fashion agency Mint Condition, is producing seven shows at Fashion Week and styling three of those for the labels Carolyn Church, Deborah Sweeney and Cybele. Lorimer says that means, "I'm practical for seven and creative for three."

Your working wardrobe when you're backstage?

Jeans and T-shirt, which what I wear every day. It's a bit of a uniform. I might wear something along the lines of what I have on today - Helmut Lang trainers, Zambesi men's jeans and a Bonds T-shirt. I have a thing about jackets and cardigans at the moment so I'll probably also have on my Comme des Garcons cardy and my vintage leather jacket from Gerties [vintage clothing store] in Christchurch. Backstage, what you wear must be workable.

And when you're sitting in the front row?

I won't get to go home and change before attending any shows so I might take a clean T-shirt so I don't look too shabby. I do think about what I'm going to wear because last year I wore a bright blue T-shirt for working in and didn't have anything else to change into. At the end of the day I went to a show and afterwards I could see my T-shirt in the back of their publicity shots [of the runway show] and I wished I hadn't been quite so conspicuous. So I've learned my lesson there.

What's the biggest mistake the public make when planning what to wear to a Fashion Week show?

Trying too hard. Fashion is actually accepting of lots of different ideas. Last year I met a guy at Australian Fashion Week who wore stockings all the time. It was totally insane but he rocked it out.

I think there's no reason why you shouldn't take the opportunity to dress up if that's your buzz, but I don't think you should worry about it too much, either.

What shows are you looking forward to?

Zambesi, because it's always beautiful and I wear it. And Kate Sylvester because there is always some really good production. Kate Sylvester and Wayne Conway always put so much work into their runway shows which are particularly good to attend.

Because of my role I won't get to see some of the shows I'd like to, but I'll also be looking forward to Miss Crabb, Cybele and Deborah Sweeney because they're new, hot young designers.

KAREN INDERBITZEN-WALLER

Karen Inderbitzen-Waller is a New Zealand stylist based in Sydney who has returned almost every year to Fashion Week to add her distinctive touch to several designers' shows. This year it's Kate Sylvester, Little Brother and RJC.

Your working wardrobe when you're backstage?

Comfortable for working on shows, probably jeans and sneakers. At the moment I've got these crazy Marc Jacobs sneakers because they're really comfortable. And it's usually something I can change easily from day to night with just some heels and maybe another bag. I bring those with me and at Fashion Week I'm always walking around with a shoe-bag on a string.

And when you're sitting in the front row?

I've got this necklace from Dead Martin with all these stitched silk skulls. I think the designer of this local label, Maiangi Waitai, is a genius - it's a work of art and a little different.

And some other shoes. I love heels but I'm a bit over vintage heels because they tend to fall apart when you wear them all the time. I'm a big fan of Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu shoes ... all those fancy ones that cost an arm and a leg, and I'm particularly keen on a round-toe pump at the moment.

What's the biggest mistake the public make when planning what to wear to a Fashion Week show?

People worry too much about it. I think it's great to make an effort, but there's no need to buy a whole new wardrobe or turn it into a circus.

What shows are you looking forward to?

Zambesi, because they always deliver and they just do their own thing. I always look forward to Nom*D. I'm also interested to see what Adrian Hailwood and Kristine Crabb are going to do.