The secrets of great champagne

The adventurous and youthful chief winemaker of Moet & Chandon, Benoit Gouez. Photo / Supplied

Vintage Champagnes are only released in what are considered to be the best years. As 2003 was such a scorcher, the region produced wines which many feel lack the crispness that characterises great Champagne, so what makes the 2003 Moet so special?

Champagnes from 2003 may have had the lowest acidity ever, but that's not everything that you need for ageability. Our 2003 is a unique wine. It's less about elegance and more a bold style with ripe tropical fruit, pastry and light spices that are fleshy and deep, but still fresh with good persistence. It's also the driest vintage we've ever made.

Champagne has built its classic styles on the coolness of its climate. However, recent years have seen a spate of warmer vintages. Is global warming afoot in Champagne's vineyards and could this spell the end of the region's reign in world-beating bubbly?

So far global warming has been rather good for Champagne: it's been a long time since we had a bad vintage. However, if years like 2003 happen more often we will have to adapt our harvest dates and winemaking, and it will influence style. So far 2003 remains an exception. However, we are concerned and realise we have an impact on the environment so are making our Champagnes sustainably.

Fears of climate change have made some Champagne houses cast their eyes across the channel and start investing in the chillier but similarly chalky terrain of Southern England. Is this something Moet is doing?

It's too early. We haven't invested in Britain. However, I tasted some English sparkling wines a few months ago and liked the 2003s. We still have time to consider it, but there's a big difference between its sparkling wines and Champagne. We're still focused on Champagne and have much to do there.

Climate concerns aside, making Champagne sounds like a great job. You've been chief winemaker at Moet since 2005 - what is it that you love about your role?

The best time is still the harvest, which lasts for an intense two to three week period in Champagne. Then there's the blending and the decisions you take at this stage, which I've decided to do in a different way. However, given the lengthy time between blending a Champagne's release, you don't get instant results and it takes time to see whether you've made the right decisions. It's very rewarding.

Moet & Chandon's non-vintage Brut Imperial is the world's best selling Champagne. Have there been any changes you've made to its classic recipe?

There is no recipe or formula: we're just looking for the classic balance of the grape. However, it will continue to evolve to suit contemporary consumption without betraying its style. Just as people are returning to lighter, fresh styles, we're aiming for more precision, purity, and lightness and making a drier style of wine without losing any of its generosity.

Moet & Chandon Champagne 2003 will be available in New Zealand later this year.


A bubbly personality

The new face of Moet & Chandon's advertising campaign, Scarlett Johannson, talks about her relationship with the brand

What is it about Moet & Chandon that attracted you?

I was attracted to the way that Moet has presented itself as a historical tradition. It is rare that a company that has been around for almost 300 years is applying fresh and innovative ways to celebrate their product. To me, the campaign is a perfect blend of timeless tradition and a young, carefree attitude.

What are your favourite things about Moet?

Aside from the obvious flavour and quality of the wines, it's the enthusiasm that every part of the production has for the finished product. Even though the company has the most extensive estate in the Champagne region, the amount of care and pride that goes into every bottle makes it feel like an intimate production.

What does the word celebration mean to you?

Celebration, to me, means having a zest for life; recognising an accomplishment and seizing the moment. No accomplishment is too small to celebrate, even if it's a moment of recognition you have within yourself.

Can you tell us a little about your favourite food pairings with Moet champagne?

I like to pair Moet Champagne with oysters, with caviar and on certain Sundays, with breakfast!

The shoot looks like you had a lot of fun. What was the most memorable moment?

The most memorable part of the shoot was being able to pop the cork of the magnum bottles, one after another, and spraying the entire set with Moet. I kept thinking, 'I'll never have the opportunity to do this ever again!'

Can you define the sparkle that makes someone a celebrity?

To quote Truman Capote, '... they sensed she was a girl to whom something was going to happen'.

What are the qualities you most value in people?

Honesty, a sense of humour, loyalty.

What are your passions in life?

My family and friends, travelling, film, music and my work.