Flowing locks, once seen as unusual on a man, are now hot property. Photo / 123RF
Forget the short back and sides, longer hair on men has gone mainstream. Are you ready to give it a try?
'Something about you looks different," my friend told me when we caught up recently. "It's your hair. It's so long!" The truth is I'd actually just had my hair cut. But instead of wearing it up in my signature man bun, I'd decided to let it down for once.
I also found myself fortuitously on trend: whether it's Jared Leto, whose tousled waves are a calling card, the Manchester United striker Edinson Cavani or Brad Pitt, who at 58 is re-embracing a longer length. Flowing locks, once seen as unusual on a man, are now hot property. Jason Momoa, who styles his hair with scrunchies, is also working wonders.
A quick survey of London's celebrity stylists confirms that more men are ditching regular cuts with the aim of cultivating longer manes. Many credit the pandemic for the increase. "Post-lockdown, there are definitely men of all ages who have pushed through the threshold of short to long and decided to maintain it," says the stylist Nicholas Hardwick, who counts Victoria Beckham among his clients.
Adam Reed, who has snipped the hair of everyone from Diane Kruger to Madonna, reports a similar trend, noting that an "undone" look is the holy grail for this new breed of long-haired man, who has more in common with 1990s David Ginola than he does Russell Brand.
"We have loads of men coming in asking for what I call the boyfriend bob," he says, describing a style that looks a bit like you cut it yourself — but didn't — with some of the weight snipped out of it so it doesn't look too heavy, and worn tucked behind the ears. "They're now coming back every six weeks to get their hair cut and styled, not just tidied up," Reed adds.
This regular maintenance is because the man bun is no longer the end goal. "More men are getting their hair done to wear it down, which we haven't seen for ages. A lot of them have grey hair, which I love," Reed says, confirming that this isn't just a young man's game.
I grew my hair to avoid constant maintenance (when I came to London as a student, paying a barber every four weeks seemed like an unnecessary expense) and bad hair days (the man bun hides a whole world of sin), but now I have a proper 'do I am keen to discover the secrets to preserving my "just stepped out of the salon" style.
Unsurprisingly the key is a great cut that is less about the simple straight-line chops commonly associated with men's haircuts and more about layering and feathering. "They're all predominantly female haircutting techniques but there's no point in gendering them," Reed says. As for products? You'll need a few in your bathroom cabinet, with hair masks and sea salt sprays among the essentials. Here's the good grooming guide to going long gracefully.
Washing your hair every two to three days is enough, but a quick shampoo is not an option any more if you want smooth and healthy results.
To maintain glossy, well-groomed tresses, apply a weekly mask (a sort of facial for your hair). Try Kérastase Elixir Ultime Le Masque, or Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector does the trick.
Like your mornings fuss free? A considered chop will get you closer to a shake-and-go reality. "It doesn't matter if you want to do anything to it or not," Reed says. "If the cut has been done right, your hair will fall into place. A good cut makes it uncomplicated. Tie it in a messy bun when it's wet, take it out and give it a bit of a shake and you'll be all right. But always use a bit of product." If you want to avoid blow-drying altogether, Jonathan Van Ness — another A-lister sporting glossy longer locks — has launched his JVN Complete Air Dry Cream, which works wonders for defrizzing when applied to damp hair.
Do you want to channel Keanu Reeves or 1990s David Beckham? Or perhaps Jack Grealish (before he reached for the razor) is your muse? I asked for a cross between Sex and the City's Smith Jerrod and Meg Ryan.
You might be used to washing your short hair every day, but long hair is a different beast and should be treated accordingly. Wash less but "always blow-dry your hair using a hairdryer and nozzle and a good mousse," suggests Larry King, the celebrity hairstylist who is currently on tour with Jared Leto. King's new My Nanna's Mousse adds volume and shine while removing the fluffiness. For easy beach waves, twist strands of your hair while blow-drying. By the second day my boyfriend bob looks a lot like River Phoenix's hair: effortless, and a tad more teenage heart-throb than the day before. I scrunch it up in a bun overnight and give it a shake in the morning before adding a bit of L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Beach Waves salt spray and Oribe Fiber Groom to add texture and get it back into shape.
Losing a little on top? Best sit this one out. Keeping it short can give the illusion of thicker hair. Ask your hairdresser for advice.
"Change your styling products as your hair gets longer," King says. "Longer hair needs to move and should not be held in position with too much product." So stay away from the mattifiers, crispy gels or sticky clays. From experience, applying the product to damp or towel-dry hair makes for the best results, but "don't be afraid to make use of a hairdryer to blast dry, or even throw in a brush and a straightener or tongs," Hardwick says.
Growing your hair is a journey and the odd stages of mid-length hair are unavoidable. The biggest mistake? Cutting your hair too much. "You have to power through the awkward stages," King says. "Although a little trim of the back to stop the unintentional mullet happening until the sides catch up is always a good idea." Find a strong product that holds it all in place. For me that was VO5 Rework Putty.
Written by: Henrik Lischke
© The Times of London