KEY POINTS:
If I had to make a desert island choice of a red wine, I would probably opt for a bottle of pinot noir. However, being somewhat shallow and easily led, if on my island retreat I was offered a final meal that included a selection of robust red
meat and veges, I could be talked into a Bordeaux-style wine that included a predominance of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, a dash of cabernet franc, petit verdot and even a whisper of malbec. But let's stay with the pinot option. There's a rub.
After our global acclaim with sauvignon blanc, New Zealand pinot noir is being hailed as the next big thing. We've had some success and many significant international wine writers are talking us up. So far, so good. It just so happens our own relatively newly discovered love affair with pinot coincides with a wave of worldwide interest in this most temperamental grape.
Truth is, the hype has been greater than the consistency found in what is patronisingly known as "New World" pinot noir. A handful of mainly small producers attracted early attention. But as the harsh, unrelenting light of critical observation has continued to shine, we're not looking quite so flash.
Inconsistency and some reactionary wine-making techniques, such as too much use of oak have not helped. Nor have well-intentioned producers desperate to climb on the latest bandwagon, but from areas that should avoid pinot. Hard-won reputations are easily lost. Possibly the area of greatest concern, one able to be remedied immediately, is price.
A number of major players are becoming too expensive and no longer competitive but I can introduce you to a significant number of French Burgundy (pinot noir) producers who have established reputations based on history, consistency and skill, and who are either the same price or cheaper than us. It hurts me to say it but, in terms of quality, they're all over us. Until the pinot is perfect, the price ought to be right.
Recommended
2007 Quartz Reef pinot noir
Passionate Central Otago winemaker Rudi Bauer can be relied on for wines of subtlety, power and elegance. Dryish, earthy style.
Price: $45
2007 Forrest Estate pinot noir
Established Marlborough producer with fine reputation for innovation. Cherries and blackberry pie - hint of lavender and violets. Soft, easy.
Price: $30
