KEY POINTS:
New Zealand's attempts with cabernet sauvignon and merlot continue to be annoyingly herbaceous and atrociously vegetal, with few exceptions. And that was just for openers from the world's most influential wine commentator, American lawyer Robert Parker in 2002. "It is unbelievable that anyone can find anything to praise
in these offerings.
If you like wines that taste like liquified asparagus, you will find some merit in them. The majority of this nation's wines are over- processed and too expensive for the quality they deliver." Parker is an imposing, rumbustious character who has a take-no-prisoners, publish-and-be-damned approach to critiquing wines.
Normally we wouldn't give a toss, but this prolific writer wields a big stick and has an enormous worldwide readership (on the net and elsewhere), fans who purchase wine based solely on his comments and points allotted out of 100.
Parker has a preference for big, full-bodied wines. Wineries, notably those in Bordeaux, use his verdicts to benchmark their prices on the release of each vintage. I have first-hand experience of the man's reach and power.
A decade ago I bought two cases of a Barossa Valley Shiraz, 1997 Torbreck The Run Rig, at $80 a bottle. Shortly after my purchase, Parker heaped praise on it. There were only 400 cases made and the price shot up to US$800 ($1000) a bottle overnight. Frightening.
Good news for me - I swapped a case for a dozen of the French Bordeaux first-growth, current vintage Chateau Latour, selling for US$1125 a bottle.
But the really good news for the New Zealand industry is that Parker and his tasting team have just released wine reviews extolling the virtues of New Zealand wine - Hawkes Bay reds in particular. He says: "One forgets just how fine New Zealand's cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux blends can be, particularly in Hawkes Bay.
Top scores with an impressive 95 points each were Craggy Range's 2005 Le Sol Syrah and Trinity Hill's 2006 Homage Syrah, cementing the region's reputation for stunning syrah as well.
In summary, New Zealand's wine industry is a precocious child determined to excel." Thank you Mr Parker, we knew that already - glad you've finally caught up.
RECOMMENDED
2006 Craggy Range Te Kahu
From Hawkes Bay's Gimblett Gravels. A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and malbec. Blackberry, sandalwood and camphor notes. Highly spiced, delicious.
Price: $30
2005 C.J. Pask Declaration Merlot
More Gimblett Gravels excellence. Intense, concentrated plum and spice with a hint of sweet oak. Serious, heavyweight merlot.
Price: $48