The Java Room, Parnell

You'll find a grand range of fresh and interesting food at fair prices at the Java Room. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

Herald rating: * * * 1/2 

Brgt txtd: "Lk 2 eat 2nite?" which I think translates as, "Are you doing anything this evening? Do you fancy the idea of going out for a meal somewhere?"

"Yes," I responded, "but it's getting a little too late to book anywhere, it's 4.30."

The phone rang. "Do you know," Bridget laughed, "that you are the only person who texts in correct English, full sentences, with punctuation?"

The Java Room's website said we could book by text. "I'll do it," I said. "Yeah, with punctuation," she said.

Hooi Hing is an Auckland restaurateur who not only accepts text bookings but replies within minutes. That level of service may be one reason that the Java Room is celebrating 10 years.

Another reason may be his pedigree. Born in Malaysia, trained as a hotelier at Les Roches in Switzerland, food and beverage manager at five-star Shangri-La in Kuala Lumpur, he came here in 1988 to manage the Sheraton's banquet tables. Quit and went cruising till 1995, when he cruised back to open the Java Room.

It's one of those places that people like to call an undiscovered secret. People who've discovered the secret, that is, and Java Room fans are not shy about sharing the love. Passionate, loyal, they are embracing the new technology on those websites where amateurs with names like "indulger", "icemist" and "prissy" write about restaurants to the harrumph of those who have devoted their professional lives and livers to the art.

The restaurant is small - 40 seats inside, 40 on the veranda. Cuisine is Asian Rim. As Pacific Rim reworks Old World tastes and flavours into our newer world style, this version eclects around China, India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia.

Bridget arrived first by two sips of Kingfisher. From opposite ends of the signature Taste of Asia platter, I ate inwards from Malay grilled chicken satay; she from grilled mussels lipped with wasabi mayo and coriander to tiny spring rolls, prawn and corn fritters.

We met at a tiny bowl of tarakihi, marinated in lime jus, dressed with ginger and coconut. Exotic and aromatic, this one plate sums up the menu.

Reading "green curry", do you think Thai? Yes, so do I. The Java Room's version proves us geographically challenged. My main claimed Sumatran heritage: boneless duck, roasted, in the green chilli curry. The vegetables were fresh and glistened as though under supermarket lights. Spooned over rice, the sauce rated 2/3 on the hotness scale and called for another Kingfisher. Speaking of alcohol, the Java Room has an adequate wine list. It's also BYO.

Bridget was slightly less enthused. She ordered laksa - "spicy laksa bouillabaisse with prawns, calamari, mussels, tofu and sprouts," the menu has it.

On the Bridget scale, laksa at the Hard Wok Cafe in Christchurch rates 1000, all others somewhere below. She reckoned this example of the sublime Malay/Singaporean combo of noodles, fish and coconut milk gritty, not sweet enough.

Maybe it needed more coconut milk or cream? A comparison to pea and ham soup was made. A tough critic, Bridget. Maybe she should contribute to one of those websites.

Caveats. We ate at 6.45, before the place goes off. Later, the servers' smiles can become strained and delivery less laksa, more lax. There's just one bathroom and ... sometimes I wouldn't go there.

"Overall, though, I like it," I said later. "The food is fresh and interesting, prices are fair, you can eat in a different country every night. What about you?"

"2 rite," replied Bridget. 

Address: 7/317 Parnell Rd
Phone: (09) 366 1606
Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-late
Cuisine: Eclectic Asian
From the menu: Marinated raw tarakihi in lime jus, ginger-coconut dressing $9.50; South Indian fish curry with spices, tamarind, star anise $21; Beef fillets stir-fried with bok choy in mountain soya and oyster sauce $18.50
Vegetarian: Own menu
Wine: Adequate list, fair prices, BYO
Bottom line: Exotic, fragrant, aromatic. Good prices