The Grove, Auckland central

Head chef Michael Meredith with the yellow fin tuna dish. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

Herald rating: * * * *

The Guest: Tell me why we're here, again?

The Writer: A few clues - tables, chairs, knives, forks, nice white linen, glasses, and no doubt you'll find a use for those.

The Guest: Sarcasm doesn't become you. When you mentioned Viva I expected a certain level of style, refinement and wit.

The Writer: Which is precisely why we're here. That, and the fact that I thought it was about time that you ate somewhere other than Parnell.

The Guest: There is nothing wrong with having Antoine's as my kitchen.

The Writer: I couldn't agree more. Though, since you married a chef, I'm surprised you even remember what a kitchen is.

The Guest: Perhaps we could refrain from the personal remarks for a while and you could answer my original question.

The Writer: Fair enough. The Grove opened last August in this room, which you would well remember as Le Brie and a few other ideas that didn't quite make it. A couple of young operators, Michael and Annette Dearth, came to town from the United States and opened last August. Brave to open a fine dining place in the CBD, because it's very hard to break into the top end of the business in this town from a standing start. They've pulled it off, as you can tell by the crowd. Their first move was possibly the smartest - Michael Meredith, who had trained in your kitchen, was just finishing his season with Vinnie's and they installed him as chef.

The Guest: Hold on a moment. You were a touch unkind about Vinnie's in those days.

The Writer: Yes, but that had more to do with the loss of atmosphere and style while Pru Barton and David Griffiths were in Hawkes Bay than the quality of the food. Since he's lobbed up here, Meredith has had a free rein to develop his own menu. Some of his early experiments were fairly rococo - boned and stuffed quail, on a chestnut and cinnamon risotto with soused figs was one. I've been here two or three times over the months and he's pulled back from the parlour tricks, and his combinations are a little more in sync.

The Guest: I think the nice lady would like us to order. I can't resist Bluff oysters.

The Writer: It's only fair that I try the new version of quail.

The Guest: Perhaps we could have some wine?

The Writer: Of course. This is not so much a wine list as The Times Atlas - Europe, America, Australia, Aotearoa - but we're going to pay for the choice. Chard Farm River Run pinot noir, 2003?

The Guest: Perfect. These oysters are absolutely divine. The quail?

The Writer: As I said, he's simplified things. An Asian-influenced salad - papaya, enoki, peanut - and there's a sharpish ginger and spring onion relish to set it off. Lots of flavours, but they're nicely balanced.

The Guest: I'm going outside for a smoke.

The Writer: Sorry, I forgot how unreconstructed you are. Quite possibly the only unreconstructed woman left in Parnell.

[The maitre d' arrives at the outside table: Your mains are at your other table now.]

The Writer: Your pork?

The Guest: Gorgeous. Two meals in one, really - grilled fillet and slow-cooked belly, apple sauce and roasted fennel. And the last flavour is ...

The Writer: It's a quince jus. I read it on the menu. This lamb rump is rather special, too. I was a little wary about the accompaniments - tahini and kumara, shitake mushroom and sweetbreads - but it works. It's in a soy reduction, which brings 'em all together.

The Guest: So does the pinot noir. You were right when you talked about style, refinement and wit. That goes for the room and the service, as well as the food. Pity about the view.

The Writer: That happens to be my office across the road. Are we doing dessert? He does this thing with green apples in a brulee, a sorbet and a spring roll; and a chocolate cake with nut praline, armagnac anglaise and orange sorbet; and ...

The Guest: Not with your cholesterol, mate. Now, could you ask the nice lady to get my car brought out front? It's time I got back to Parnell.

Address: St Patrick's Square, CBD
Ph (09) 368 4129
Owners: Annette and Michael Dearth
Chef: Michael Meredith
Open: Mon-Fri lunch and dinner, Sat dinner only
Food: Fusion
On the menu: Smoked eel beignets with cauliflower hummus, pomegranate, baby cress and curry oil $18
Braised leg of duck with peppered breast, kaffir lime polenta and baby bok choy $33
Mahoe Greek yoghurt pannacotta with orange, grape and pomegranate salad and vanilla verjuice syrup $14
Vegetarian: Even a six-course tasting menu
Wine: Ranges far, wide and pricey
Parking: Best to take the $10 valet option
Bottom line: Michael and Annette Dearth were brave to open a fine-dining restaurant in the CBD and smart to install Michael Meredith in the kitchen. The Grove has settled to become a must-eat for fusion fans.

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