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Home / Lifestyle

The first of the summer wine

By Jo Burzynska
NZ Herald·
8 Nov, 2008 03:00 PM6 mins to read

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Huia Marlborough Brut 2002. Photo / Babiche Martens

Huia Marlborough Brut 2002. Photo / Babiche Martens

KEY POINTS:

The deck is swept and the garden again a great place to be as it comes alive with aromas and colour. The first crops of succulent summer vegetables arrive at the table and the beach, bach and tracks beckon, along with other pursuits that become more attractive under a warm sun.

These sultry summer days call for the crisp and fragrant wines that cooler climates produce so well - think New Zealand, Northern France, Germany and Austria. Their versatile styles also suit the cuisine of the season, with its focus on fish, seafood, lighter meats and salads, while something more robust is required for the ubiquitous barbie.

Here are some lighter-hearted libations suited to the season, as well as more serious fare for special occasions, with many of these wines as fresh to the market as the aromas and flavours they exude.

BALMY ROMANTIC NIGHT
Pyramid Valley Vineyards Angel Flower Canterbury Pinot Noir 2006

($255 in three-pack with Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir)

A rendezvous that calls for something special to be savoured with that significant someone. And they don't get more special, or indeed select, than this, the first and much anticipated release from a biodynamic estate's home vineyard. Angel Flower and its more savoury sister the Earth Smoke are outstanding pinots made in tiny quantities (hence only being sold together in a three-pack), with the Angel Flower my favourite by a tiny fraction. Treading an exhilarating line between fragility and intensity, it has a gauze-like texture, raspberry coulis fruit and carnation-like florals, subtle savoury undertones and a power that builds through its delicate palate. Heavenly.
(Direct from www.pyramidvalley.co.nz.)

APRES SURF
Sepp Moser Wolfsgraben Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria 2006 $29.80


After a day taming the waves, something fresh and invigorating but lower in alcohol after all that exertion is in order. This Austrian Gruner Veltliner is an adventurous choice with its dry, zingy and intense palate of citrus and mineral, seasoned with white pepper and aniseedy spice, which works wonders with Asian fusion food. And if you can't pronounce Austria's flagship white grape, just call it Gru-Vee as they do in the States, where it's become one of the hippest varieties.
(From Scenic Cellars.)

LAZY GARDEN DAYS
River Farm Ben Morven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $22


Crisp, cool and echoing the greenery of the garden, what could serve better than a Marlborough sauvignon? The best are those in which the variety's bold aromatics are backed by a mouth-pleasing texture, like this impressive inaugural release from River Farm Wines. In this very drinkable sauvignon, aromas of dusty stones, greengage and jalapeno lead to an intense but elegant flinty palate driven by a vibrant line of lime.
(From Caro's, Wine Vault, Farro Fresh.)

PICNIC TIME
Hihi Gisborne Rose 2008 $18


The best wines for al fresco drinking are fresh, fruity and compatible with the variety of dishes that tend to be brought on a picnic. With a hint of sweetness, Hihi's pinotage, merlot and malbec blend rose rises to the challenge, delivering bright and succulent strawberry fruit laced with cream, a pinch of spice and more weight and interest than many pink wines.
(From Kohi Corner Bottle Store, Liquorland Gisborne or direct from www.hihi.co.nz.)

CELEBRATING SUMMER
Huia Marlborough Brut 2002 $39


For toasting special occasions or just to celebrate summer itself, a good bottle of bubbly's the biz. Finesse and richness flow through Huia's vintage sparkler with its notes of Danish pastry, crisp apple and yeasty complexity tempered by a brisk note of citrus. Cheers!
(From Wine Vault, Scenic Cellars, Primo Vino, Village Wine Trader, Hamilton Wine Company, Advintage, Top Value Liquor Association, Liquorland Taupo, Golddiggers Liquorstore.)

ON THE BEACH
TW Gisborne Chardonnay Viognier 2008 $19.95


Just as the books of Sophie Kinsella may be regarded as more suited to seaside reading than Schopenauer, the wine that works well after swimming and sun worship should be light and upbeat, like this pretty perfumed blend from TW. With the lemon blossom and apricot characters of viognier and fresh citrus lift of chardonnay, it's a winning combination.
(From Liquorland Kerikeri, Matakana Liquor, Milford Cellars, Blend, Super Liquor Howick, Primo Vino, Bidois Liquor Barn.)

AFTER THE 18TH HOLE
Domain Road Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 $34


Treat yourself to something that's as light and poised as your swing at the end of a successful game of golf on a warm afternoon, like the Domain Road Pinot. Just the second release from this small estate, it's silky and violet-infused, with fresh notes of raspberry-dominated red fruit over a more complex minerally dimension.
(From First Glass, Accent on Wine, Glengarry, Fine Wine Delivery Company.)

TRAMPER'S DELIGHT
Akarua Bannockburn Central Otago Pinot Gris 2008 $25


The end of a long day's walk calls for something satisfying but not too challenging, making easy drinking pinot gris a fitting finale. Freshness is key to good gris, which is at the heart of this wonderfully balanced example with its oily textured baked pear and cinnamon palate underpinned by a soupcon of sweetness counterpoised by a spine of minerally acidity.
(From Glengarry.)

SPA SIPPING
Fallen Angel Marlborough Riesling 2007 $20


Heavy, highly alcoholic wines can be quite overwhelming in the heat of the spa, making light and racy rieslings often a sensible option. From Stonyridge's fun second label comes this seriously good riesling. Redolent of freshly squeezed lime over river stones, this is backed on the palate by fleshy peach, acacia blossom and developing nuances of honey and toast.
(From Glengarry.)

BARBECUE BEAUTY
The Grail Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007 $21.99


The smoke and spice of the barbecue requires something quite gutsy and spicy syrah can rise to that challenge. The Grail is a slightly softer early drinking style made using a new technique that removes the grape seeds from the fruit before fermentation to enable more silky tannins to be extracted and avoid drawing out bitter components. Satin smooth and ultra aromatic, it's laced with black pepper and incense-like spice, with lifted notes of fresh rose petal over juicy berry fruit.
(From Caro's.)

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