The Dining Room at the Spencer on Byron Hotel

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

When it opened with a flourish two years ago, The Dining Room at the Spencer on Byron Hotel in Takapuna attracted considerable attention, mostly because of its famous chef Warwick Brown. My recollection from its early days was of quality food but cruelly bright lighting - cruel that is to those of us of a certain age. Brown has since moved on and not much has been heard of The Dining Room since, so I decided to check it out, particularly because Takapuna can sometimes appear challenged on the fine-dining front.

They have maintained the white and grey decor (with a splash of purple) but thankfully dimmed the lighting. The minimalist Japanese effect is enhanced with a banquet display of white orchids and complemented by the Asian influences in the menu. The tourist hotel effect was achieved with the synthesiser-enhanced pianist - enough that it would have seemed entirely appropriate had a couple stepped forward to fox-trot on the polished recycled timber floor - and a menu that also included grills and pizzas for the unadventurous and the few children.

We began in the bar, of course, where I couldn't help noticing they offered a martini list. But not wishing to spoil our taste for the grape, we opted instead for wine by the glass, accompanied by moreish deep-fried pastry nibbles.

For her first course, Jacquie asked for the panfried jumbo prawns ($18.50). The scampi, seldom seen on these shores, looked like he might have crawled out of a Disney movie. Accompanied with Asian noodle cake, simu scampi and a ginger and lime dressing, the dish was highly pleasing.

I began with the seared jumbo scallops ($16) which were shrimps compared to the prawns, but tender, sweet and beautifully set off by the lemon-infused risotto they rested upon.

Being a seaside suburb, it seemed appropriate to stick with seafood. My next course was the salmon with prawn-stuffed tortellini, cockles (not something you often see on a menu), mussels and Asian greens, infused with just the right amount of red curry flavouring so as not to overpower the fish ($29.50). The waiter did ask me if I wanted the salmon cooked through, and I know that it's not trendy, but I did, and the reason she asked is that a lot of people do. So that's a relief. The entire package, I have to say, was divine.

But not so Jacquie's pan-roasted snapper, which she said was overcooked. It came with the must-be-difficult-to-achieve potato-stuffed leek, slow-roasted tomato and shellfish wanton ($26.50).

We accompanied our meal with the fabulously dry and oaky Babich Irongate Chardonnay ($63).

To compensate for the tough fish, our shared plate of chocolates and cookies ($12.50) was boosted with extra goodies, we were told.

For a Saturday night, The Dining Room was not overly busy, but for North Shore-ites who may have forgotten about it, it is worth another try.

Cost: Three-course meal for two with wine $187

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.