KEY POINTS:
There's a lot to be said for the humble potato. For something really quite plain - some might say ugly - the cheap-as-chips tuber throws up no end of surprises. The only thing to remember - and it's unlikely you'd forget - is to cook it first (cooking
breaks down the starch and softens the flesh) but this can be done numerous ways, skin on or off, whole or chopped. Chipped, roasted, baked or mashed, potatoes thicken soups and stews, top pies and go with practically every other vegetable, meat and fish under the sun.
What you want to be looking out for right now, though, are the season's new potatoes. These moreish mouthfuls, barely the size of walnuts, are first dug out in early spring and are naturally sweet as their sugars haven't yet converted to starch. Nor have their skins yet thickened with age.
You're best off hunting them down at a farmers' market as chances are the grower will still have dirt on his hands and his potatoes will be covered in a protective layer of soil. The more recently dug-up these little beauties are, the better they'll taste, so buy just enough to see you through a couple of days. If you don't use them that day, store in a cool, dark place in a paper bag or cardboard box. Don't keep them wrapped in plastic as they'll sweat. You'll know they're freshly dug if the thin, papery skin comes away when you rub your thumb over it and the flesh beneath feels tight and firm. Not all small potatoes are necessarily "new" though - some are just smaller offerings of larger varieties, so double-check before you buy.
Forget about peeling them. The delicate skins are part of their beauty, enhancing both texture and flavour, and besides, they'd be a fiddly bother to peel. Just scrub them carefully and cook them whole - they'll absorb less water whole than chopped. Drain them the minute they start to give when pierced with the tip of a knife.
Use these lovely, waxy spuds in salads. They contain more moisture and less starch than their large ones, which means they hold their shape better. Dress them while they're still piping hot (the butter or oil will go further so you'll use less) and always cook a few more than you need - there's few dishes they can't improve the next day. And just to clarify, potatoes are not fattening. Just go easy on the butter and oil. If you must.
- Detours, HoS