Tasting a new generation

Franck Duboeuf was here for just 24 hours last month before hot-tailing it to Sydney for another whirlwind round of tastings to launch his New Generation wines.

Of the seven-strong range six are available Downunder, the seventh - a shiraz that has less oak and more fruity flavours and a definite sweeter taste than everything else in the new line-up - is aimed specifically for the American market.

"When we were sent samples of wines that the Americans liked we initially said we just couldn't do anything like that," says second-generation wine maker Duboeuf.

But since the bottom line speaks louder than ideals, this well-known beaujolais producer is doing just that - making a wine taste sweeter than it usually would, specifically to appeal to North American taste buds.

It was also the bottom line that saw this winery launch its innovatively packaged New Generation wines to appeal to young drinkers who might opt for beer or RTDs rather than wine.

The packaging has more in common with either of those beverages than most wine bottles, its wrap-around plastic sleeves a brave and bold mix of the brightest colours in the spectrum. Likewise the labelling is bold for a Beaujolais producer, who has opted here to use varietal names, such as chardonnay, rather than the traditional French regional nomenclature.

The range includes a chardonnay, merlot, syrah, beaujolais, a white blend (chardonnay and sauvignon blanc) and a red blend (syrah and merlot).

It was launched two years ago at Vin Expo in France, the idea being that most wine drinkers around the world are now varietal-oriented and looking for very aromatic, rich and powerful wines full of black fruit, red fruit aromas and tastes that they instantly recognise, says Duboeuf.

And while it has been relatively easy to convince drinkers to buy these wines in markets such as North America, New Zealand and Australia, it is more difficult to convince the French.

These wines do offer a modern twist on the French wine theme, delivering fruity, forward flavours and a clean, fresh style.

All of the grapes used in the New Generation wines were grown by contractors; small land owners whose entire livelihood is growing grapes. The wines are made as stand-alone varietals (from single grape varieties) and blended together from different growers after the Duboeuf family have purchased them.

And the Duboeuf New Generation wines are so appealing in taste and price they seem certain to usurp the spot occupied by this winery's most famous offering, beaujolais.

At the small Auckland tasting at Ottos, one of the Duboeuf New Generation chardonnays was served with beautifully tender duck but either of the beaujolais served on the night would have been far more of a hit with this dish, which was begging for a red wine partner just like a soft-tannined, smooth tasting beaujolais.

And while most drinkers may recall beaujolais as hideous, light, slightly spritzy nouveau, those under the Duboeuf label in New Zealand are far better than that.

The best of the current range available in New Zealand is the Domaine des Quatre Vents Fleurie, produced by Georges Duboeuf; a fantastic lithe, silky and spicy red wine - brilliant with or without food but robust enough to drink with game meats and strong cheeses.

Incidentally, Les Vins Georges Duboeuf was begun by Franck's father, a wine negotiant who was among the first in France to own a mobile bottling truck that he drove from one winery to the next at vintage time - allowing small operations to control the quality of wine they made.

The truck, with its own filtration systems, was considered uber-modern in the 1960s and it is now housed in a museum in Beaujolais. Its owner, Georges, is still alive, still working and is the first person to arrive to work each morning at Les Vins Georges Duboeuf. 

WINES OF THE WEEK

WITHIN YOUR MEANS

2002 Georges Duboeuf New Generation Beaujolais $16-17

If you have yet to drink a decent Beaujolais, pick up a bottle of this soft, peppery and almost syrah-like red wine. And, yes, everything you hear about Beaujolais tasting great lightly chilled is true because its soft smooth tannins don't fight with temperature. It is the perfect late summer (okay, very late summer) red wine or else great around the fire in winter. Its peppery flavours are typical of the gamay grape from which Beaujolais is made. Available from Glengarrys and other specialist wine stores.

GREAT VALUE

2003 Georges Duboeuf New Generation Syrah $16-17

Here is a clear example of the difference between syrah and shiraz. Where the latter is sweet and rich, this wine leans firmly towards seductive aromas of savoury barrels and spice with black fruit flavours in a supporting role. Love the soft tannins, the luscious flavours in the middle of the mouth and the lingering finish. This red wine is new in New Zealand, fantastic value and is a must for red wine lovers. Available from Glengarrys and other specialist wine stores.

CELLAR PALATE

2001 St Hallett Old Block Shiraz $69 to $70

It is made from vines 80 to 100 years old, is hugely impressive and one of the most famous Barossan shirazes around. While this four-year-old blockbuster red still tastes ridiculously youthful, it is delicious with a chunky piece of parmigiano. Or if you are in charge of your willpower, simply cellar it; otherwise decant into large glasses at least two hours before drinking. Available from specialist wine stores.