2005 Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec. Photo / Brett Phibbs
Don't cry for me... You know the word that follows in these lyrics and probably something about the magnificent steaks and menacing-looking Argentinian forward pack that on a good day strikes fear into the heart of any international rugby team. But not too much is known about the
wines of Argentina.
When it comes to white wines, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc lead the field with chardonnays especially displaying depth of fruit, complexity and concentration. But it is a French red varietal that Argentina is putting up its hand for - malbec.
Malbec is a brutish, take-no-prisoners grape, loaded with macerated black fruit flavours and earthy spice. It's all boldness and brawn, its inky black colour can be so dense that no light can penetrate the bottle. Argentinian malbecs can be complex, intense and ageworthy. Some would say a straight malbec is an acquired taste but made correctly they're a welcome change from our slavish dependence on cabernet blends and pinot noir.
A major Argentinian producer whose wines are available in New Zealand is Trapiche. These wines collect bucketloads of awards, especially for their elite single vineyard malbecs, which although not exactly bargain basement prices, at under $50 are excellent value for money given the quality. Then there are the less expensive under-$20 malbecs which represent astonishing value given the heavy transport costs these days. Malbec is a food wine.
Drunk in isolation, it simply doesn't work, being too rich. Ideally it should be served with red meats, stews, mushrooms, pasta, mild-to-spicy cuisine and semi-hard cheeses such as gouda, edam or gruyere. It's not unusual for some vines to be between 50 and 100 years old.
Consequently, the wines express a high level of maturity. Generations of grapegrowers have dedicated their lives to taking care of the vines. It shows in the bottle.
Recommended
2005 Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec
Sweet aromas of plums and blackberries. Touches of smoke and vanilla. Elegant texture - long sweet aftertaste.
Price: $15 - $16
2003 Trapiche Tributo Malbec
From 50-year-old vines. Complex array of cherry jam, chocolate, vanilla - thick tannins. Oak and smoke aromas.
Price: $49
