Surprises from Argentina

Auka, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. Photo / Dean Purcell

I remember being mesmerised by the sublime skills of Hugo Porta, the Argentinian rugby five-eighth of a bygone era.

Built like a front row forward, he danced on the head of a pin and glided with silky precision through a bewildered opposition.

An appropriate simile, I feel, for a lot of the wines now coming out of Argentina - strong, robust, uncompromising but with an underlying grace and smoothness that never fails to surprise.

Formally relegated to the bulk bargain bin, Argentinian wine has let loose and there are now red and white wines of considerable quality at mostly affordable prices.

Malbec is probably Argentina's calling card; a red French varietal that seems to have fallen on difficult times in the Old World regions but is a galloping success for Argentina.

Also successful and getting a good deal of attention are their cabernet sauvignons, merlots, chardonnays and sauvignon blancs. While New Zealand is not exactly awash with South American wines, what does find its way here is usually of sufficient interest and price to warrant our attention.

The only way to know if our own wines are actually any good is to compare them to what other countries are producing and the price.

From Mendoza, the heart of Argentina's wine industry, comes a smart producer called Auka. The name is taken from what the indigenous Indians were called and the label reflects their artwork. There's an eclectic mix of varietals, including some grape styles that are not well known to most of us, like torrontes.

Not taken seriously until now, it's a grape that can surprise, especially when the yields are kept low and the winemaking is of a high standard. There's a very smart syrah in the Auka line-up, which is not too surprising as it normally grows well where malbec does.

The malbec itself has that distinctive rustic chalky grit and cold tea, tobacco, plummy sweetness. The wines of Argentina are indeed now punching above their weight.

Recommended

2009 Auka Torrontes
For those wanting a new white wine experience this is perfect. Very perfumed with light fruit salad flavours. Smells of lavender and Turkish delight, sweetish but not cloying. Fresh, delicate and peachy.
Price: about $24

2007 Auka Cabernet Sauvignon
If you like your cabernet rich and ripe, soft with bucketloads of plum flavours, this is a dream fulfilled. Smells of a sun-drenched orchard in summer. Great value wine.
Price: about $24