KEY POINTS:
The idea of the anti-ageing facial is perfect for this time-poor world. Pampering is all very well and good, but it's nice to get some bang for your bucks. So I happily submit myself to having my face variously spray painted, rolled into shape and lymphatically drained, all
in the name of a smoother, firmer better hydrated skin.
The Non-Surgical Facelift
Caci medispas ($110, 60 minutes)
This sounds too good not to try and my treatment is twinned with Murad's Environmental Shield Vitamin C Facial ($120, 60 minutes standalone). Sylvie explains the process thoroughly, because it's not every day little metal rollers and tiny electrical currents pass back and forth over your face.
The sensation is relaxing, pressing glycolic acid into the skin to help tone muscles and prod along skin cell function. My jowls come in for plenty of attention.
The process is said to tighten and tone sagging muscles and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Most people undergo a course of 12-15 facials, in relatively short order, followed by a regular appointment every 6-8 weeks or so to keep tone up. A bit like going to a gym, you need to go regularly, says Sylvie.
Sceptics can be treated on one side of the face first then compare it with the untreated side. Upper facial muscles are gently stretched and lower ones tightened by the actions. I'm also infused with Dr Murad's Vitamin C formula, which, being antioxidant-rich, targets sun damage, pigmentation and fine lines. Vitamin C isn't produced or stored by the body, I'm told, so we need it from our diet or our skincare, as it stimulates collagen production.
Afterwards, my tired under-eye area undoubtedly looks smoother, with fewer fine lines visible and my skin has a healthy glow and looks and feels firmer. A day later, I think my jaw is in slightly better nick than usual, but as I've only had one facial I can't be sure what this non-surgical exercise has really achieved. A bit like the gym, there's only one way to find out.
* Caci has 25 branches nationwide. These treatments were at the new Caci Medispa CBD, 43 High St, Auckland. (09) 357 4343, www.caci.co.nz
The Oxygen Facial
The Elements MediSpa ($250, 1hr 15mins)
I like the way Jude tidies a few stray hairs on my brow and attends to a little milia spot on my cheek as she settles me in. A fairly standard cleanse and exfoliation (with the gentle French salon range Darphin) follows before I'm warned things are about to get cold and tickly.
I feel like I've had the nozzle of a fine spray gun aimed at me, only to find that when the trigger is pulled it contains nothing more lethal than an icy mist. So there I am, trying not to giggle or squirm in the few minutes it takes to get used to.
Jude is at work infusing Intraceuticals serums during the spray painting. There's a Rejuvenation facial, an Opulence brightening facial, or an anti-wrinkle Atoxelene version, depending on an individual's skin needs. Vitamin A and whitener are in my mix to combat discolouration.
Once completed, my whole face feels plumped up, with tighter pores and a good glow. The next day I'm still feeling hydrated and happy.
Jude explains the csOxygen facial can be undertaken as a course of six, with treatment individually tweaked along the way, or as a one-off, perhaps before an occasion. I'm keen for more.
* The Elements Medispa and Beauty, 225 Hinemoa St, Birkenhead. Ph (09) 480 7563 www.theelementsspa.co.nz
The Proactive-Facial
About Face clinics ($130, 1hr 15mins)
This is a Clarins facial, using the renowned French skincare company's phyto-botanical range. An optional eyebrow tidy and brief foot cleanse to start as Shae explains that the products used are 7 per cent more active than the over-the-counter versions, hence the facial's Proactive tag. Clarins fans will recognise the aromatherapeutic qualities from the initial relaxation ritual. The facial combines plenty of massage and Shae's touch is excellent: there's a cupping action with the gel-like cleanser, a gentle chafing to free the dry exfoliator that smells like Vegemite, then it's a firming and toning treatment. A lymphatic massage follows, aimed at dealing with sluggish systems while working in the chosen serum (from versions to energise, treat dehydration, lines and ageing and menopausal skin). A mask, including on the decollete, follows with the choice of foot or hand massage. By the time the final layer is applied, I'm a lot more relaxed. For anyone on the cusp between pampering and treatment, this is nice place to rest awhile.
* About Face has six Auckland clinics. This facial was at Sylvia Park, 266 Mt Wellington Hwy. Ph (09) 573 0345.
(Exclusively at that clinic only, there is a 2-for-1-deal until December 12).
Beam me up
I'm sitting in Dr Mark Gray's office at the Ponsonby Skin Institute and as this expert in cosmetic medicine, dermatologic and laser surgery peers through his glasses in close examination of my face, I'm beginning to regret my years as a sun-worshipper.
But there are no stern lectures, just the recommendation of non-invasive Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) to help minimise sun spots, pigmentation and fine veins.
A week later, I'm sitting a little nervously as registered nurse Sally Ellison rubs numbing cream on to my face. This will help minimise the pain of the shots of laser light by around 75 per cent so that each flash ends up feeling like the light flick of a rubber band.
My eyes are protected from the light with a small mask and I am given a special pipe to hold which blows cool air on my face. Sally spends the next 45 minutes firing the single laser light shots on targeted areas.
When the light hits the skin it turns to heat. Brown spots absorb the heat and are then broken into hundreds and thousands of tiny little pieces. These pigments turn darker over the next three to four days, then they form into a fine flake on top of the skin which can linger for up to 14 days. The key is to treat the skin gently and allow the process to take its course.
With the red pigment the heat is absorbed, meaning the blood is dried up so the body will naturally break it down and absorb it, or the blood is squeezed out of its vessel.
"IPL is ideal for colour correction of the skin," says Sally, "and is a wonderful rejuvenator because you get a lot more reflection of light. The heat also creates collagen stimulation."
Most people need at least three treatments, four to five weeks apart, to get the best results. Minor side effects include the initial darkening of the skin, and it can look and feel a bit sunburnt. Mine feels itchy and hot as the numbing cream wears off. Sally sends me off with ice to hold against my face, and while she warns there could be slight swelling, I don't notice any. (Rare side affects can include tiny blisters and bruising - but this is very uncommon.)
By the next morning, I can see the areas which have darkened, but the rest of my skin looks great. While I have to keep out of direct sunlight for at least two weeks, I don't have to hide away and with plenty of 30+ sunblock and a light foundation I head into work, where no one notices (or is too polite to say). The best time to have this kind of work done is in winter, to avoid being in the sun.
She says because my skin is fairly olive the results will be more subtle. I know I'll never have flawless skin but this is the most effective treatment I've ever tried.
- Amanda Linnell
* The cost of IPL depends on each individual case with one session being approx. $500.
* Skin Institute, 3 St Marys Rd,
Ponsonby. Ph: (09) 376 8888.
398 Lake Rd, Takapuna. Ph: (09) 486 7111.
12 Silverdale St, Silverdale;
Fernhill Dr, Massey;
Upper Harbour Highway, Albany, Ph: 0800 754 637.
