Stone Oven Bakery and Cafe

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

There was a time when I never imagined I would begin a sentence with, "First we went to the gym." But that's what middle age and all this food reviewing forces upon you - at least on those of us who don't want to develop the tragic physique typical of regular restaurant reviewers.

So after the Saturday morning joys of the ab cruncher, the weight machines, the exercycle and the treadmill, we felt we had earned our breakfast. And at the Stone Oven in Devonport's old Telephone Exchange, I knew they served breakfasts of generous proportions that had to be earned - here, the Big Breakfast includes lamb chops.

Yet I knew this more from observation than direct experience. Numerous times I have sat down here for lunch out of the counter, because, they warned, there could be an hour's delay for anything off the menu. That's how popular this place gets. Thanks to the toys down the back, it is particularly popular with young families. It's one of those places you have to hover near a group you believe is about to leave, so you can grab their table.

Greeted with a fullsome blackboard menu, I was so excited there was no queue of people waiting to order that I rushed my choice. It was not until I calmly re-studied the menu from the safety of my table that I regretted not noticing the vegetarian breakfast with capsicums, courgettes and mushrooms.

Instead I had asked for the ubiquitous eggs benedict with salmon on bagel ($14.90). This was peculiar of me, because as my colleagues know I generally loathe bagels. It would be just as satisfying, I say, to chew a couple of car tyres. Strangely, no one in New Zealand seems to make them the way they're supposed to be made to avoid the toughness. Nevertheless it was a fine eggs benedict with lashings of salmon.

My fitness-friend opted for the eggs, bacon, tomato, sauteed potatoes and toast ($11.90). She found the toast (the Stone Oven is after all a bakery) particularly memorable. So, sadly, was the tomato which had more in common with a cricket ball.

Our coffee was late because, as the waiter came by to explain, she had forgotten to process the order and she was very sorry. We were pleased she had the courtesy to apologise.

Okay, so we had a couple of things that were less than perfect. But I like the Stone Oven. I love its ample servings for reasonable prices. I like being able to study all the fabulous sandwiches, cakes and lasagnes in the cabinets. And it was a satisfying breakfast.

I'm getting hungry again just thinking about it.

Parking: the supermarket across the road or on the street.

Ambience: casual, family-friendly, busy.

Service: honest.

Open: 6.30am to 6pm.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.