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Home / Lifestyle

Steve Braunias on the joy of hot pools

By Steve Braunias
Canvas·
7 Oct, 2022 04:00 PM4 mins to read

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Parakai Hot Springs, northwest Auckland.

Parakai Hot Springs, northwest Auckland.

Opinion

OPINION

Hot pools are central to the New Zealand way of idleness - we too often think of New Zealand as something wild and bracing and adventurous, full of fools on skis and surfboards, but hot pools are a constant reminder that in fact we live on a Pacific island designed for laziness, for sloth, for sitting around to do nothing more than stew in a weird and steaming outdoor hotpot. I texted Shayne the other day and said, "Let's go to the hot pools," and he said, "Great idea," he'd drive right over.

Hot pools are for young and old, mad and reasonable, friends and lovers – everyone knows the love story of Hinemoa and Tūtānekai, and its setting of Mokoia Island in Lake Rotorua, where Hinemoa hid in the island's hot spring to wait for her lover. When Tūtānekai arrived to meet her, "She rose up from the water," in Sir George Grey's 1855 version, "as beautiful as the wild white hawk." Shayne learned to drive a few years ago and then gave me lessons, which were fun but I never took it any further and his own knowledge of cars has remained pretty limited, close to non-existent.

Hot pools form a kind of river running beneath New Zealand, or a "quasi-subterranean stream", as John Cheever described the 15 neighbourhood swimming pools his character Neddy Merrill plans to navigate in Cheever's classic short story, "The Swimmer" – he writes of poor, doomed Neddy, "He seemed to see, with a cartographer's eye, that string of swimming pools, that quasi-subterranean stream that curved across the county." Shayne walked up my front path and said, "Bad news. We're going nowhere."

Hot pools are an enduring interest for Sally Jackson, author of "Hot Springs of New Zealand" – she has published five editions since 2001, constantly updating its list of thermal pools, including such obscurities as the Amethyst hot springs dug into a river near Harihari, private kauri-lined tubs at Te Maire, and New Zealand's most isolated hot springs (she hiked for four days over the Southern Alps) somewhere or other on the Mungo River. Shayne had mounted the curb outside my house and got a flat tyre and neither of us had any idea how to fix it, and we stood by the car deep in thought.

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Hot pools in New Zealand are on islands, at beaches, in rivers, on either coast – in his great 1945 travel book "Farthest East", one of a series of books about walking hither and yon the length and width of New Zealand, A.H. Reed (then 70) describes visiting the Te Puia springs on the East Coast at night, "divesting myself of slippers, pyjamas and singlet", and marvelling, "There is something uncanny about this underworld phenomema, whereby hundreds or thousands of gallons of medicated water are being heated every
minute, day and night unceasingly, and sent up to the surface, suggesting
constant relays of subterrannean sweating titans stoking unquenchable fires,
and pumping hot water in perpetuity." I boiled the jug for a cup of tea and
hung out with Shayne in the kitchen, where I asked him about the tour he'd
just finished playing with his band, Dimmer, and he said it was awesome.


Hot pools are where hot water runs wild, where pre-European Māori cooked as
well as bathed and came up with interesting names for individual springs
("food for the skin of a young woman", "water for scalding a dog"), where
the exterminating heat is actually able to support macrobial life forms
known, charmingly, as extremophiles - the genetic make-up of extremophiles
suggests that the earliest life on Earth evolved in a hot spring or deep-sea
thermal vent several billion years ago. Things were better then. You didn't
have to worry. You didn't have to worry because you didn't exist, no one and
nothing did, except for extremophiles, lazily and slothfully stewing in
medicated hotpots, in no rush, in no hurry, patient to wait several billion
years for Shayne to phone his guitar player James, who came over and put on
the new tyre while we stood by the side of the car and watched, totally
unhelpfully but very appreciatively and gratefully. Then we drove to the
hot pools at Parakai, two old guys, Māori and Pākehā, soaking up the
great New Zealand idleness.

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