Rolly Gassmann Tokay Pinot Gris 2004. Photo / Babiche Martens
There are moments in the course of a lifetime where the entire universe seems to come to a shuddering halt. It doesn't happen often - if it did the impact would be lost. I believe they are called moments when time stands still, such as falling in love
for the first time, the birth of a child.
Recently, out of nowhere, I had two sublime occasions when grace, beauty and truth collided, creating that moment when you are both alone and at one with the cosmos. First, the Leonard Cohen concert. Breathtaking, magnificent and spiritually uplifting. Second, being introduced to Frenchman Rolly Gassmann's pinot gris.
Poor pinot gris suffers in New Zealand from a lack of self-esteem but, in spite of that, it's surprisingly popular. This dichotomy comes about because wine elites - or snobs - are not overly enamoured with pinot gris and most winemakers produce it under sufferance, while the wine-buying public continue to beat a major highway to its door.
Some of our top-end pinot gris have taken colossal strides in the past couple of years and there are some fine, relatively inexpensive drops that actually taste like pinot gris rather than pinot blah. Why so popular? It's easy, approachable, food-friendly and blissfully uncomplicated.
Also, the price is right: good local pinot gris can be found for under $20. In tough times that's appealing - even in good times it has a definite attraction. Okay, so Monsieur Gassmann's is more than double that. But sometimes there's a price to pay for transcendence.
Recommended
2004 Rolly Gassmann Tokay Pinot Gris
From Alsace in France's north-east, the home of sublime, personality-filled, versatile white wines. Liquid honey and pear flavours, rich but not sweet. Creamy, smoky and powerful. Elegance and class.
Price: $52
2007 Julicher Estate Pinot Noir
Family-owned boutique Martinborough producer turning out quality wines. This tastes of cherries, plums, redcurrants and hint of forest floor. Ripe, savoury and slinky.
Price: $38
