S.P.Q.R.

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

I have never seen Ponsonby Rd so quiet, but then I have probably never been there so early on a Sunday morning. At least 9.30 is early by Ponsonby standards and also by mine, and at SPQR cafe and bar, where they would have been rocking until 2am, they have no intention of opening until 10am, so a stroll down Auckland's restaurant and boutique mecca to fill in the time was required.

Even then, as the first ones seated for breakfast, the place had a definite morning-after feeling, which adds to its trendy concrete, copper and iron ambience.

The menu is definitely weighted more towards lunch than breakfast - no bowls of muesli and yoghurt here - and includes the fish dishes SPQR's brunch has become famous for.

Which is why I studied the snapper offering before choosing the house smoked salmon on toast, with capers, spinach and creme fraiche ($16.50). I suppose because of the toast thing, I expected everything to be warm, which it wasn't. Not even the toast. But it was tasty nonetheless and whatever it is they do to their salmon it's worth it, even cold. I have to say, though, that all those raw greens first thing was a bit daunting, but at least I left the table feeling satiated rather than stuffed, which has to be a good thing.

Jane, however, ordered the SPQR breakfast ($16.90) - two poached eggs on toast, spinach, tomatoes, sausages and mushrooms, but she asked them to hold the bacon. She cheerily waded through the entire banquet, except for one of the eggs, and said she hadn't had such a good breakfast in a very long time. By the end she took some persuading that it was time to go home.

When I thought the service was a little slow, she said I was being unkind, although she agreed the coffee was lacklustre, especially by Ponsonby Rd standards.

I've had some marvellous meals at SPQR so I had high hopes for its brunch, which on reflection weren't entirely fulfilled. But maybe I ordered badly. Next time - and there will be one - I'll swing to the breakfast end of the menu pendulum.

Where: 150 Ponsonby Rd, Auckland

Parking: Try Brown St around the corner

Service: Average

Open: Weekends from 10am, weekdays from noon

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.