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Home / Lifestyle

Sparkling, still or tap: Should Aucklanders ever pay for fancy water?

NZ Herald
5 Mar, 2020 01:38 AM5 mins to read

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Trial & Error: Can a chef, critic or a rookie tell the difference between fancy waters in a blind taste test?

It's often one of the first questions we're asked when we sit down to dine at a restaurant: "Sparkling, still, or tap?" But does it really make a difference to our meal?

If you're the type that's inclined to opt for bottled, Antipodes or San Pellegrino tend to be the common option on Kiwi restaurant menus.

But with another fancy mineral water - Voyage, produced by Coca-Cola and promising to be a "a force of nature to savour" - entering the market and eyeing up diners' tables, we decided it was time to see if anyone can actually taste the difference between a $12 bottle and something poured from a kitchen tap.

According to Auckland chefs and restaurateurs, water matters.

READ MORE:
• Sparkling water found to be bad for teeth
• 'Got to be kidding': The $10 bottle of NZ's Antipodes water that has Australia up in arms
• On the waterfront: The mineral water taste test
• Why fizzy drinks (and even sparkling water) are worse than you thought

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Auckland chef Michael Dearth says both his restaurants, The Grove and Baduzzi, offer San Pellegrino still or sparkling water, both $12 a litre. Filtered tap water is free.

Ponsonby restaurant SPQR offers Antipodes still and sparkling water at $10 a litre. Again, tap water is free.

"We definitely give people a choice," says SPQR owner Chris Rupe.

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"Some people drink mineral water all the time but occasionally decide to give tap water a go.

"How clean is our tap water though? And there are differences between different types of mineral water - it's not all as it appears. Some mineral waters are served in plastic and that's not good for the environment.

"It's another expense but there is a difference. New Zealanders should appreciate their own water."

View this post on Instagram

Voyage is ideally experienced at 11 degrees, the same temperature at which the water is sourced from Te Waihou spring. Continuing its journey from source to table #water #voyagewater #springwater #nzwater #tewaihou

A post shared by Voyage Water NZ (@voyagewaternz) on Jan 6, 2020 at 5:37pm PST

Have you paid for water you didn't ask for?

You may be among those of us who have been stung with an unwanted water fee after a meal out.

Canvas magazine restaurant critic Kim Knight says it's important to ask for tap water if it's not offered.

"When you're asked 'still or sparkling' you need to be ready to assertively add a third category - tap. I forgot recently, and got charged $10 for a bottle of still water.

"My dinner date had asked for sparkling - $20 extra for water is a mistake you don't want to make too often!"

But chef and Restaurant Hub founder Mark Gregory says it's worth paying extra to get a good mineral water.

Tried and true Antipodes has a new competitor in Voyage water. Photo / NZ Herald
Tried and true Antipodes has a new competitor in Voyage water. Photo / NZ Herald

"The fancy waters go through a lot of filtering and that's what you pay for."

Gregory says sparkling water pairs well with seafood, white meats and salad.

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Water: A critical taste test

We enlisted Gregory and Knight to undergo a blind taste test of three different waters:

Voyage:

Voyage is the new water on the mineral market. Photo / Instagram
Voyage is the new water on the mineral market. Photo / Instagram

Voyage water comes from Te Waihou spring in the Waikato and is meant to have a soft mouth feel due to its silica content.

It's described as "a force of nature to savour ... subtle yet sophisticated, with a story all its own, it delivers an elegant finish to the table and the perfect complement to any gastronomic occasion".

No pressure.

Antipodes:

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Antipodes water is a go to in many restaurants. Photo / Instagram
Antipodes water is a go to in many restaurants. Photo / Instagram

Antipodes water comes from the Bay of Plenty and is known for being the first zero carbon mineral water. Its low minerality and simple bottle shape are designed to make it a good table water.

It's served in restaurants all over the world, offering "almost imperceptible flavour and a gentle, silky texture on the palate".

Tap water:

The mineral waters were tested against good old tap water. Photo / Instagram
The mineral waters were tested against good old tap water. Photo / Instagram

And last but not least, humble tap water - a basic source of hydration.

Our critics described the Voyage water as "not super fizzy" at first but it eventually became "really bubbly on the tongue."

Apparently it also had a "metallic saltiness".

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Knight said she tended to prefer tap water as it made for a better palate cleanser.

The Antipodes water had a more neutral flavour, and the minerality was harder to detect - it had less flavour and was less fizzy.

So whether you want to dish out for fancy water or you're happy with the chlorinated stuff that comes out of the tap, it's important to know your options.

Expert verdicts:

Kim Knight:

"My main criteria for water is that it's cold and wet. When I'm dining out, I'm looking for something to clear my throat, to refresh my palate.

"I always order tap, because bubbly fills me up and mineral often has a distinct flavour - sometimes it's a little salty, or soapy.

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"If you like water with flavour, then definitely order Voyage, but personally, I preferred Antipodes."

Mark Gregory:

"In terms of dining - I would go with the Antipodes water. However, if I was in a bar and didn't want to drink alcohol, I can easily see myself drinking the Voyage, especially if someone else was buying a round."

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