Southern comforts: South Island restaurant reviews

Logan Brown restaurant. Photo / Supplied

Business trips involve being away from home and can get tiring and lonely - but not for me. What these trips mean is that I get to visit some of my favourite restaurants and cafes outside Auckland. And, luckily, I've never had a problem eating alone - apart from being disappointed that I get to sample only my own menu choices.

On this particular working week I had cause to be in Dunedin, Christchurch and then Wellington on consecutive days.

Now if you're in Dunedin, my advice is to forget the albatrosses, the mighty surf at St Kilda, the university campus, the castles or any of the other touristy highlights and head straight for the fantastic cafe/restaurant/bar called Plato.

Tucked away beneath a concrete overpass, down by the railway lines, you'd never know it was there but trust me, it's a gem. One of the reasons I love Plato is that it always has an impressive array of specials, many of them seafood. Tonight was no different and I had trouble choosing from the extensive selection of starters that included paua fritters, southern littleneck clams steamed in the shell and tossed with garlic and chilli and whitebait fritters, to name a few.

Given we're in the middle of the whitebait season I settled on the free-range egg whitebait omelette. It sounded irresistible and it was. Piping hot, packed with the seasonal delicacy and drizzled with a lemony beurre blanc sauce.

Next I took the taxi driver's advice ("Plato does the best in New Zealand") and chose the salmon fillet for my main. This was seared and served with kumara gnocchi and creamed leeks. The salmon was cooked to perfection, a little rare in the middle and crisp on the outside. The gnocchi were sweet, light, fluffy and divine. The creamed leeks could have done with a bit more cooking to really soften them.

The portions are bigger down south so I couldn't find room for dessert - and besides, I had prep to do for work the next day, so it was back to the hotel for me.

Next day, post-work and on my way to the airport, I dashed up to Maori Hill to check out a new cafe I'd heard was worth a visit. No. 7 Balmac is owned by the talented Katrina Toovey (ex-Nova and Abalone). It's stylish, relaxed and offers a great bistro menu for breakfast and lunch.

My wood-grilled scallopine of free-range chicken, served with wilted silverbeet, smashed potato and dressed with lemon and cold-pressed olive oil was worth nearly missing my plane for.

The next stop was Christchurch. I decided to try E-Studio, the latest venture of South Island restaurateur Tony Astle (yes, they have one too). E-Studio offers a cosy wine and tapas bar in addition to the full restaurant. I decided to perch at the bar in favour of the restaurant. When dining alone, eating at the bar is a great option as you can blend in, chat to the bar person if you want or simply survey the scene as people come and go. The menu is heavily influenced by Spanish and Middle Eastern cuisine. I began with a bowl of smoked almonds, followed by a salad of warm goat's cheese, walnut and honey. Heavenly. Next up was the grilled chorizo with white beans and sauteed red peppers, all soft and sweet. The last savoury dish I tried was the highlight - lively, green broad beans with salty jamon (cured ham) and mint. This dish was stunning in its simplicity.

I didn't need them but when churros are on a menu, I can't resist them. These warm Spanish doughnuts, with a cup of spiced liquid chocolate for dipping almost tipped me off my bar stool. Thank goodness I had a good way to walk to get back to my hotel.

My final stop was Wellington and my dining destination was Logan Brown. It was recently awarded top honours as New Zealand's Best Restaurant. Getting a booking here can be difficult, but a table for one is easier than a table for six. The restaurant is situated in an old bank and looks like a special occasion place though it has an extremely relaxed feel. The menu features dishes that show a true appreciation and respect for the ingredients.

For my starter I had paua ravioli with coriander, basil and lime beurre blanc. It was a tender wee parcel and the beurre blanc was so drinkable I nearly asked for an extra jug on the side. Next time.

For my main I couldn't resist the Canterbury venison loin served with osso buco and parsnip mousse. Wow, what a dish. The venison was rare and tender to the point that I didn't know I was eating it, but for the blissful time my tastebuds were having. The osso buco was presented as a tight cylinder that fell apart in rich forkfuls. Dessert was a rhubarb tarte tartin, which was thankfully as small as it was perfect.

Three days, three cities, eating out day and night - I was beginning to flag but so pleased to have fitted them all in around work.

Work? What work, this business trip was a buffet of great eating establishments, all of which I'll be looking forward to returning to.

DUNEDIN

Plato

2 Birch St, ph (03) 477 4235

From the menu: Whitebait omelette $22.50, salmon fillet with gnocchi $29.50

No. 7 Balmac

7 Balmacewen Rd, Maori Hill, ph (03) 464 0064

From the menu: Scallopine chicken on silverbeet $17.90

CHRISTCHURCH

E-studio

131 Victoria St, Christchurch, ph (03) 366 4544

From the menu: Almonds - complimentary, goat's cheese salad $18.50, white beans and chorizo $18.50, broad beans and jamon $7.90, churros $12.50

WELLINGTON

Logan Brown

192 Cuba St Wellington (on the corner of Cuba & Vivian Sts, ph (04) 801 5114

From the menu: Paua ravioli $29, Canterbury venison loin $48, rhubarb tarte tatin $19

Drinks: All fully licensed

Rating: All are highly recommended for the business traveller