Size matters

Penfolds Grange. Photo / Supplied

May is the month that the latest vintage of Penfolds Grange is released. This long established Aussie icon has come a long way since the handful of illicit barrels crafted by its creator Franz Schubert in the fifties, to a 6000-9000 bottle label today within the two million-case plus Penfolds portfolio that's now owned by booze behemoth the Fosters Group. Not quite the boutique background that some would expect a fine wine of this stature to possess.

It's an image that's at odds with the widely held notion that it's the passion and attention to detail espoused by the smaller player, as they personally guide each wine from vineyard to bottle, that's behind most of the finest wines.

"A small scale operation like ours allows us to be very hands-on in all areas," explains Clayridge's Mike Just. "Every dollar of additional cost we incur over a large winery is directly attributable to making the best possible wine we can; we never cut corners in the grape growing and winemaking, while a great deal of the costs carried by large multinationals are attributed to marketing and to the large management overhead required to run such a big ship."

What constitutes small is also open to debate. For example, the "limited" production of some of the most highly rated wines of the world, such as the Bordeaux First Growths, can actually number 25,000 cases - that's comparable to the entire annual output of a winery considered medium-sized here in New Zealand, and makes Grange's proportions appear far more modest.

Since some of the worst wines, as well the best, have hailed from smaller establishments, it's clear that size isn't everything. It's more about the approach. Larger wineries often cite their top wines with a "boutique mentality", where small-scale production techniques and a more hands-on approach are applied within a big operation. While this may sometimes be marketing spin, it can often create highly creditable wines.

"There's a perception that small wineries are more passionate, but that's not necessarily true," says Steve Lienert, who as senior red winemaker at Penfolds is the man largely behind Grange. "At Penfolds we're as passionate now as we were 40 years ago. In fact the quality's more consistent in today's Granges as we're putting more emphasis on the vineyards. We have so many to choose from within the group, which is a fantastic resource."

Grange is still a great wine as the knockout 2004 vintage highlights. It's handled in a completely different way than the brand's higher volume wines, with a proportion made in the traditional open top fermenters at Penfolds' historic Magill Estate winery.

The closest Kiwi equivalent is Tom, the $135 Hawkes Bay Bordeaux blend, now made by the multinational Pernod Ricard. It's a great wine, but unlike Grange has remained underrated, with more kudos in this country going to wines from small estates.

Many of the most awe-inspiring wines have undeniably been the fruits of the little guy, while large-scale operations tend to be best at producing cheap to mid-range wines. However, the quality of Grange and Tom illustrate that some of the big boys can indeed craft world-class corkers.

All cuvees great and small

A great grange

Penfolds Grange 2004, Australia from $549
Despite the size of the stable from whence it came, the 2004 Grange is a stunning wine with immense power and finesse. Intense aromatics of exotic spice and dark berries on the nose lead to wonderfully dense and supple palate of blackberry, plum, nutmeg and liquorice, underpinned by a fresh acidity and relatively powerful but powdery tannins. One of the best vintages of recent years.

Affordable alternative

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2007, Australia $23.99
Unlike the Grange, which is rare in that it's a top wine that's a multi-regional blend, the Bin 128 hails from the single region of Coonawarra. A cooler climate style, this mid-weight shiraz has a tight and structured palate of ripe red berry fruit, spice, sweet vanilla and a touch of youthful tannic grip. One for steak or the cellar. (Both Penfolds wines available from fine wine stores including Glengarry and Fine Wine Delivery Company, selected supermarkets, and liquor stores such as Liquorland, Super Liquor and Liquor King.)

Limited release lovely

Clayridge 'Escaroth' Marlborough Viognier 2008 $24
An extremely impressive inaugural viognier from boutique player Clayridge. It's a relatively weighty wine with intense notes of apricot, honey, musk, spice and a savoury mineral edge, balanced by a citrus zest freshness. Available exclusively from Clayridge's Excalibur Club, along with other new limited releases such as the stunning "Crusader" pinot noir. (From www.excaliburclub.co.nz)