Simply beautiful

In this coming season of fashion contrasts it's no surprise beauty looks are equally diverse, but the common theme is an impression of effortless polish. Think modern sophistication, be you dressed in biker chic, as a pastel princess or a backwoods bohemian.

From the international runways to the cosmetic counter colour collections, there are plenty of styles to choose from, rather than a single dominant look. There is certainly more colour about, but it's not heavy, so no need to flirt with gothic fright or the bird-bright eyeshadow that first signalled it was time to try face paint again.

No wonder most women stuck with the dominant near-nude trend of the last decade. But the decade is over, so it's time to update. More makeup, for sure, but a less "made up" look, with an emphasis on "prepping" skin for a radiant finish.

Beauty inspirations range from the buttoned-down, but about-to-burst-forth women of Mad Men to Jerry Hall in her 70s heyday. From Lauren Bacall and Sophia Loren to Penelope Cruz, these sensual women are cited as inspirations by international makeup artists. It's hard to imagine them leaving the house without makeup, but I bet these self-possessed sirens considered applying a flick of eyeliner and a little lippy as empowering rather than enslaving - looking unapologetically feminine, but not to be trifled with.

The glamazons at Dior's spring-summer 2010 collection are a case in point; their looks may recall the precision of 1950s Irving Penn portraits or Robert Palmer's 1980s video vamps, but what makes their look transcend time is makeup that is no longer mask-like. Classic porcelain skin and red lipstick are hardly revolutionary, but in makeup terms, their almost impossibly luminous complexion is.

It is made achievable by the sort of face base developed for high-definition broadcasting, where every flaw is writ large. New technology foundation formulas, mineral powders (and lots of prepping with primer and concealer) give skin an almost invisible coating that also manages to conceal imperfection. Photo-chromatic pigments diffuse light, making skin look more refined. Sheer genius really.

Imagine the likes of Mad Men stars January Jones and Christina Hendricks in real early 60s pancake makeup and matte red lips. The powder-heavy finish would now seem as old-fashioned as wearing a girdle. The hit television show's production team have instead taken a "less is more" approach which feels comfortable enough for the lipgloss generation to adopt. (M.A.C Mineralize powders are one of their secrets).

Dior's makeup magician is the legendary Pat McGrath. She updated the house's traditional glamour with several other trends seen across the runways and now being adopted in new season's makeup collections.

Lauren Bacall's femme fatale hairstyle was given a softer take at Dior with relaxed waves, similar to those Blake Lively is wearing.

Brows are still playthings to McGrath, groomed and brushed upward, but thankfully no longer bleached or overly darkened. Cheeks are softly sculpted, but still with a flattering flush of colour on the apple and neutral eyeshadows are giving way to cool pastels. Lips tend to be matte, but with today's more moisturising lipsticks they have a slight sheen rather than flatness.

Chanel's Peter Philips also updated the classic house look by leaving his models' hair dishevelled and their faces flushed, supplanting nude shades with warmer bronze tones, another wearable winter option. The cheeky addition of temporary tattoos was a talking point, but he kept it couture by inking on pearls rather than skulls. There's a waiting list for the stick-on variety nearly as long as that sparked by the Jade nail polish first seen at Chanel's fall 2009 show.

The collections are where fashion houses - which increasingly rely on revenue from their beauty arms - seek to start a product buzz.

Not sure the grey lipstick at Rodarte or the grey hair at Gareth Pugh will catch on as fast as charcoal clothes, though there is a move to some "ickier" slightly off-taupe, brown and mauve shades, especially for nails.

The reinvention cycle is starting all over again. As brands like M.A.C bring out products they trialled last spring, the New York collections are under way, with Paris, Milan and London soon to come.

Auckland hairdresser Iain Smith of ME salon is in New York where he is tonging at the Willow show. Amber Dreadon, M.A.C's lead makeup artist in New Zealand, is looking forward to another trip to work on a round of top shows in Milan next month.

Talking through the last shows and how they're now influencing our makeup for winter, she said it was all about "skin, skin, skin".

From the extremes of body art and tattooing, also seen at Rodarte, Malandrino and Gaultier, to the glowing complexions underpinning the makeup for Chloe, Missoni, Calvin Klein, Balmain, Zac Posen - everywhere really - playing up naked flesh is modern makeup magic.