Scoozi, Herne Bay

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

Auckland was enjoying an unexpected tropical downpour so we were lucky a parking space was available on the Jervois Rd restaurant strip, directly in front of our destination of choice, Scoozi. What a great name. Sadly, none of the staff this night had the accent to go with it.

Scoozi is described as a neighbourhood restaurant serving northern Italian fare. But thanks to its minimalist black and cream decor, its casually trendy clientele - who had packed the place out by mid-Tuesday evening - and its bifold doors opening to the pavement and a glimpse of the water beyond, it exudes the Ponsonby chic you would expect.

We ordered a bottle of the Goldwater Dog Point sauvignon blanc ($52) from the limited but adequate winelist, that included Italian selections, and got down to the business at hand.

Erin began with the honey-roasted kumara and pumpkin soup ($13.50) and purred with appreciation. Being my second Italian job in as many days, I avoided the carbo-loading and began with the tender and delicious panfried calamari with chilli sauce and pesto, served on ciabatta ($15.50).

My eye-fillet wrapped in speck (a type of ham is how the waiter described it, $27) was also tender and tasty, and while I liked my kumara mash, the jus reminded me of molasses and was overpowering.

Erin enjoyed her crispy-skinned chicken breast ($25.50) stuffed with spinach and pine nuts and served on a mushroom risotto.

I broke my usual habit of eschewing dessert, having had the problem for some time now of not being able to resist a sticky date pudding ($11.50), a fabulous flavour and texture combination that I think owes more to the Australians than the Italians.

Our choice of dessert wine was unavailable, but in keeping with their friendly, efficient service, the waitress was good enough to bring a sample of the Italian variety they did have in stock, for our approval ($9.50 per glass).

This was my second visit to Scoozi, and probably won't be my last.

Cost: $172 for two entrees, two mains, one dessert, a bottle of wine, two glasses of dessert wine and one coffee

Ambience: Casual Ponsonby chic

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.