Salute to a star (+recipes)

I am cooking madly in a woolshed, trying to avoid my scalp being shaved by our very energetic host.

South Australian Tourism, in support of the Leukemia and Blood Foundation, has challenged five chefs to dream up a dish that represents tucker found in this state. Others have whisked up indigenous ingredients such as wattle seeds, lemon myrtle and crocodile, but I have designed a tribute dish to one of Australia's culinary superstars, Cheong Liew, who, until recently, worked at the Grange in the Adelaide Hilton.

Cheong grew up in Kuala Lumpur and spent his childhood cooking with his grandmother. In 1969, he migrated to Australia, where he worked in pubs and railway cafes, trying out his culinary experiments on his housemates. Along the way, he learned Greek cooking and, armed with Elizabeth David's cookbook, taught himself French cooking. Through his enthusiasm, innovative ideas and the uncanny ability to blend cuisines, he became a legend.

After 14 years, Cheong has taken a well-earned rest. It is his famous legacy dish, "Four dances of the sea", an often-copied collection of tastes with precise cooking, that inspired me to offer red roast snapper, shaved squid salad, leek fondue and brown bean paste for the "shear the spirit" fundraising dinner.

South Australia's eclectic dining scene is so different to that of Melbourne and Sydney, which tend to swipe a lot of the media attention. In the city, the eateries have a Greek or Asian slant to their food style, but the Barossa Valley wine region has a definite Germanic presence.

The matriarch of the South Australian food scene is Maggie Beer, whose Farm Shop has been described as "one of the great cathedrals of Australian food". Barossa Farmers' Market, Adelaide's Central Market media tour with chef Mark Gleeson, and the Arkaba Station guided walking safaris travelling between four bush camps are compulsory stops.

You can take home your own handcrafted cheese from Udder Delights in Hahndorf; join a Gourmet Safari on Kangaroo Island and be inspired by Vietnamese food at Sticky Rice Cooking School in the Adelaide Hills.

In the Hills area is Locavore Restaurant, which follows the principles of the 100-mile diet: sourcing local food and wine within a 160km radius, with a nod to organic, family-farmed and fair trade products.
The greatest gourmet experience is found at Appellation at The Louise Retreat in Tanunda, which offers a wine flight, with a tasting menu matched to local produce.

This state truly is worth a visit when you next decide to jump across the Tasman.

RECIPES

Red roast snapper with brown bean paste
Pork slices with Chinese garlic sauce