Rocco, Ponsonby

Rocco chef Karijn Molema and the slow-cooked salmon fillet. Picture /Carolyn Robertson

Herald rating: * * * *

Curious how months, years even, can go by and you never use a particular word. Then twice in one night you'll pull it out. Like exquisite, when you are at Rocco, one of the most popular restaurants on Ponsonby's strip.

Rocco's success is down to three ingredients, the only three that a restaurant needs to get right but so few often do: excellent food, reasonable prices and attentive but not intrusive staff.

We went on a Thursday a little after 8pm and the place was predictably buzzing. During the course of our leisurely evening the tables around us accommodated two sittings but we were never once made to feel as if we should be moving on; quite the opposite in fact. Our waiter knew the meaning of the words "hospitality industry".

Because we had arrived at such a popular hour our entrees took some time arriving.

But we sipped the Spy Valley pinot gris ($38) chosen from the excellent list - which offers bottles over the $700 mark - and enjoyed the busy atmosphere of a restaurant which obviously has many returning clients. Waiters knew a few patrons by name.

Our waiter was terrific: he was knowledgeable about the menu, made recommendations which were right on the money, and when he described the mouthwatering seafood-stacked fideua (like paella but instead of rice it has squid ink noodles) he also warned he hadn't seen anyone finish it. He still hasn't. It was as enormous as it was ... well, exquisite.

I had the rich, perfectly seared chicken livers and Megan made her way through equally divine crab cakes so was only up to an entree-sized goat's cheese and spinach ravioli. Yet we were so enjoying the happy ambience that I went for a single-cheese serving. When I was mildly disappointed I couldn't get a taste of another our waiter said he'd see what he could do. And he did.

Megan offered me a taste of her coffee-flavoured gelato and topped up by another glass of wine and a Grahams port, I knew the gym the next day was going to be a struggle.

No matter. We had a terrific night and all up it was only $150.

Rocco prides itself on offering a sophisticated style but casual atmosphere, and not being over-priced. It does all that, and more.

And it's hard to describe the magic that comes out of the kitchen. 

Address: 23 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.

Ph: 360 6262

Open: Monday to Friday for lunches, Monday to Saturday for dinner

Chef: Karijin Molema

Wine list: Impressive, many available by the glass, and with attention to the serious high end.

Vegetarian: Cheese ravioli with mushroom and oregano broth; pea risotto; goat's cheese-stuffed zucchini; watermelon, feta and rocket with pomegranate dressing.

Bottom line: Popular for good reason: boisterous and friendly atmosphere, service which is relaxed without being too informal, and fine food.


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