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Home / Lifestyle

Review: The Crew Club, Auckland

NZ Herald
14 Feb, 2015 12:00 AM4 mins to read

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Grilled New Zealand Turbot with bone, summer vegetables and salad at the Crew Club. Photo / Nick Reed

Grilled New Zealand Turbot with bone, summer vegetables and salad at the Crew Club. Photo / Nick Reed

Address: 150 Quay St, Auckland.
Phone: (09) 365 2690
Rating out of 10: Food: 7, Service: 5, Value: 7, Ambience: 6

We had high hopes for The Crew Club. For years, the cafe attached to the Voyager Maritime Museum had not lived up to its prime position on the Viaduct Harbour. Surely The Crew Club, with its layout by Jasmax and menu from head chef Nick Haszard, who came from Dine by Peter Gordon, would make the place sizzle. Certainly, our evening started well. Yes, we could have a table outside by the water, said the person on the phone, and when we arrived on probably the only chilly evening in January, the maitre d' had reserved us a back-up table inside as well. If only he'd come to check on us again an hour later when we started to shiver.

The menu is large, offering everything you could possibly want - be it brunch, a snack, pre-dinner hors d'oeuvres or a full dinner. We started with a selection of small plates to share: two zucchini fritters and crab and crayfish rolls and one spiced duck pastry parcel, which turned out the tastiest of all three. The fritters were okay but a little tasteless. The crab rolls weren't a knockout either. On the other hand, the duck pastry was beautiful: crisp, flaky pastry, tasty, shredded duck and plenty of it, offset by a tangy relish. Shame we didn't order two.

After the excellent maitre d' welcomed us, we were handed over to a passing parade of waiters who didn't offer much guidance on ordering food or wine. I ended up with a dry Kahurangi Riesling when I specifically asked if it was non-dry, while our guest had a Greystone pinot gris that would have been perfect. Nor did anyone inquire about our comfort when the stiff southerly didn't settle down after sunset as we'd been assured it would. Indeed, as the evening wore on, we took matters into our own hands. First we stood up, walked inside and asked for another table. Second, I poured the last of the riesling into my water glass and shared a glass of the pinot gris instead. Bliss.

Earlier, we'd been informed that the pork chops we'd ordered had run into trouble in the kitchen. "The chef said the chops were not up to standard, so he's started again," said yet another waiter. "They'll be ready in a few minutes." Twenty minutes later our meals arrived, and this time we were mightily pleased. My grilled turbot was perfectly cooked, its flesh soft and creamy, with a delicate flavour that hadn't been masked by heavy seasoning - positively fabulous. The pork chops were tender and delicious but a little plain to be tagged magnificent, the sirloin just a touch over-done for our rare meat eater, but fine all the same, while the whole flounder, swimming for the last time in a bath of delectable, buttery sauce was brilliant, as were the fries. There's a lesson here: If you enjoy fish, this is the place to eat it.

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Which brings us to dessert: I had been looking forward to the coconut panna cotta from the time we arrived (which, as we know, is always dangerous) and was dismayed by the plateful of pudding that arrived.

Instead of the usual, trembling textured panna cotta, this surely had been stiffened with cornflour. Although there was plenty, it wasn't sweet enough and the slices of lime scattered on top didn't help. On the other hand, the chocolate mousse, candied woodfired plums and buttermilk icecream in an ocean of "vanilla pearls" (AKA sago) and lemon meringue pie, all served on dinner-sized plates, were huge and provided plenty to share.

By now it was 10.30pm. We'd been there since 7pm, so we called for the account and left, disappointed that The Crew Club couldn't even cope with this meagre Thursday night crowd, while a few doors down Soul and the rest of the Viaduct establishments were obviously pumping.

Too many crew, we decided, and after the first half hour, no sign of a captain.

Our meal: $402.10 for five glasses of wine, five small plates and main courses and four desserts.

Our wine: An excellent and varied list let down by staff who were not familiar with the offerings.

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Verdict: Sadly, The Crew Club did not live up to expectations. Despite beautifully cooked fish meals, the Jasmax revamp and glorious harbour view, the place lacked atmosphere and personality. Hopefully we chose a bad night and, surely, on our next visit the crew end of The Crew Club will rise up, hoist the mainsail and do the Maritime Museum proud.

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