I could hardly have been more orthodox in my first choice of Bluff oysters. For some reason, perhaps because they are so brutally expensive, I haven't had many of these stars this season. They arrived on the half-shell with the simplest accompaniment of chardonnay vinegar and were flawless, the full flavour demonstrating why they justify the usually misplaced accolade "unique".
Our other first course was another rock solid dependable option, sweet, seared
scallops prettily and tastily dressed up with almond puree and slivers of chorizo and Serrano ham and with a sherry reduction.
When it came to main courses the traditionalist in me was tempted by the eye fillet with a veal kidney pie and braised onions, but that might be best saved for the depths of winter.
The bluenose with risotto, mussels, clams, slow-cooked leek and smoked roe butter had to be considered but the veal fillet pushed itself into selection.
This was, as expected, cooked to perfection. The truffle gnocchi were apt companions, the crumbed veal sweetbreads were delicious and the whole rested on a concoction of peas, broad beans and bacon with porcini jus. If I had a quibble it was to wonder why chefs are so convinced that peas are best in industrial quantities but I concede I am not the greatest fan of the pea.
Our other main course was another old friend, confit duck leg with roast duck breast served with red cabbage, pear and citrus slaw and excellent sautee potatoes, crisp on the outside and tender within.
The dark chocolate ganache to follow was as rich as we had hoped and complemented with a fresh quince and orange granita. I went for the cheese option with a couple of choices, a good nutty Neudorf hard sheep's cheese and a Kapiti Kikorangi blue. Both were served in good condition and rounded off a satisfying evening.
We had eaten in comfortable surroundings with the fairly gentle babble of other diners' voices dominating the soundscape, the food had been good and the service difficult to fault. The construction horror in the street is well worth braving.
Our meal: $247 for two first courses, two mains, one dessert and two cheeses and four glasses of wine.
Our wine: The magnificent wine list is one of the hallmarks here. We chose from the listings by the glass with a mellow 2013 Ata Rangi Lismore Martinborough pinot gris, a 2012 Maude Central Otago pinot noir and the 2010 Grant Burge Holy Trinity GSM from the Barossa.
Verdict: An act of high class in an establishment favourite. Not one
for the thrill-seeker but some very young people were treated with the same meticulous attention as our neighbouring table of legal luminaries.
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