As it was, we had time only for a quick pre-dinner chardonnay before heading over to the rustic two-storey building that houses the restaurant Rick Stein considered one of his two "must-do" experiences in New Zealand. (The other was to eat Bluff oysters.)
From our table we could see the rail lines used to transport fresh fish from the mini-fleet of local fishing boats to Fleur's own filleting set-up. Next to catching it yourself, this is the freshest fish you'll ever eat. And probably one of the few restaurants where the host greets you at the door.
Despite there being meat on the menu, we headed straight into the fish, starting with a large plate of scallops to share. Cooked with mushrooms and cream, these were the plumpest, tastiest, juiciest scallops I've ever eaten. They were also the biggest. Three each made the perfect entree, especially combined with the slabs of rewena bread to scoop up each morsel of juice. Stunning.
Then we went out to the balcony overlooking the bay for a breather before tackling our main courses.
It's not over-posh at Fleur's. Most windows don't open. Chairs and tables are ancient and sometimes rickety. You can have your fish in batter, steamed or simply dusted with flour and fried, which is what Lizzie and I ordered. She chose groper [hapuku] with tartare sauce, which she pronounced perfectly cooked. My blue cod, which we rarely see in Auckland, fell into flakes, while Brian's smoked mussel and fish pie (the recipe for which stars in The Great New Zealand Cookbook) was huge, topped with crisped potato and quite wonderful. Even Russell, who usually avoids fish, was happy.
Our meals were served with a generous melange of lightly steamed broccoli, carrots, spuds and zucchini, which Fleur later explained had been part-cooked en masse earlier in the day. It certainly would earn the Heart Foundation's tick. No sign of even a smear of butter or oil, so we simply dipped them into the remains of our tartare sauce and lime aioli.
However, our desserts fell a bit short. The creme brulee with poached pear could have been silkier, while my coconut tart with flambeed banana was so disappointing Brian rejected his share.
Our dining companions were an interesting lot: a group of cyclists, we imagined, on one side; an English couple, plus many, many other tourists. A great guitarist played downstairs and although Fleur herself is of Irish rather than French descent, the wait staff we encountered were all French. Efficient they were, too.
As Fleur intimated as she waved us off, her place is a phenomenon. People will go a long way for a beautiful view, a friendly host and really fresh fish.
Our meal: $289 for two bottles of wine, two entrees, four main courses and two desserts.
Our wine: The list stars an excellent range of New Zealand wines, and is especially strong in South Island varieties. We started with a bottle of Mount Maude riesling followed by one of our favourite Carrick chardonnays.
Verdict: If you're heading south, a meal at Fleur's Place will give you another memorable experience to add to the Moeraki boulders, glaciers and braided rivers. Fish comes fresh off the boat every day, the waiters are charming and Fleur herself is unforgettable. But don't forget to book and, if you stay over, check out the Moeraki Village Holiday Park motels.
