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Home / Lifestyle

Review: Euro Bar, Auckland CBD

NZ Herald
13 Dec, 2014 12:00 AM5 mins to read

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Address: Shed 22, Princes Wharf
Phone: (09) 309 9866
Rating out of 10: Food: 9, Service: 9, Value: 9, Ambience: 10

What is it that transforms a fine-dining restaurant into an unforgettable night out? After our evening at Euro we had the answer: it's all about service, style and atmosphere.

We drifted into the restaurant from the wharf side of the building (as opposed to the usual entrance) but were immediately identified and greeted by the floating maitre d'. Our table was ready. "Benjamin will be looking after you tonight," he said. "And I'm sure he will give you a good time."

So along came Benjamin, with a sliding gait like an ice-skater, to take us through the menu. By 7.30pm, Euro was almost full, but the noise levels were about right. We could hear each other speak, but we also felt part of a larger, extremely interesting party. The starched white tablecloths did not translate into a starchy atmosphere. Patrons were dressed in everything from jandals to dinner jackets. Ages ranged from around 6 months to way past 60.

And despite chef Simon Gault's conversion to a healthier menu, men definitely outnumbered women, and I could see why John Key brought Bronagh here for their wedding anniversary. It's the sort of place they'd run into his kind of people who'd give them privacy if they wanted it, and a pat on the back if they didn't. Plus the atmosphere has enough lift-off to make the evening special.

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We started with a couple of gin-and-tonics and wine for the others, which Benjamin managed effortlessly, though at that stage we couldn't quite get what the fuss was about. But as the night wore on and his speed grew faster and his lip sassier, he started to make us laugh.

And so it continued. First we tried one of Gault's new vegan options, the raw crispy carrot and buckwheat bread with tomato macadamia faux creme (vegan and dairy free). The bread is more of a crispbread and was not completely saved by the creme dip, but all was quickly forgotten when the duck hoppers arrived. These were soft and tasty taco shells filled to the brim with crisp salad and tasty duck meat. Although I shared with the others it was still a mighty-sized entree. Later I noticed plate after plate of them pouring out of the kitchen, probably for late diners looking for a snack rather than the full three courses. At $26, they were excellent value.

The other standout entree was Gault's special prawn and crab - with tuna wafers giving it a life of its own - and Brian's terrine with foie gras and the special tempura prawns were good old hearty, well-cooked standard favourites.

Euro doesn't do amuse-bouches (surprising little gift dishes that turn up between courses) but the menu changes and morphs as you go through the night, adding to the fun and surprise of the place. The prawns were a sudden add-on, as was the special risotto Brian chose for his main course. Scented with smoked salmon and laced with broad beans, it was expertly cooked until creamy and the flavours were divine. The steak of the day, which had had a session in the sous vide, and therefore had to be cooked medium, tasted fabulous and was exquisitely tender. My special braised beef cheek, which I expected to be gamey and full of flavour was pull-apart tender, but bland.

Meanwhile, the hapuku fish of the day was glazed with flaxseed miso and served with marinated carrot and courgette spaghetti, which lifted it into the brilliant range. And every so often Benjamin swooped in and out, refilling wine glasses and announcing new specials with an air of ceremony.

And so to dessert. We can report that the vodka pineapple with coconut macaroons and coconut gelato (vegan, dairy-free) was stunning, the chocolate pudding pretty good and the rich, smooth chocolate bar was amazing.

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By now the babies had headed home to bed and a new wave of guests rolled in for a glass of wine and a couple of courses, which gave us plenty more to look at as we headed for the ladies', which at Euro is glamorous and cool with its fish tank, chiffon curtains, baskets of hand towels and mirrors galore.

Benjamin was the best waiter we've come across in a while. He doesn't flirt but he sure makes your night fun.

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Our meal: $408.50 for five glasses of wine, two Blue Sapphire gin-and-tonics, one hors d'oeuvre, four entrees, four main courses, a plate of vegetables and three desserts.

Our wine: The list is excellent and wines offered by the glass are of exceptional standard.

Verdict: You can depend on Euro to deliver an evening to remember which still leaves you frisky. And we love the message on the bottom of the invoice: "Be good, take care and be kind to your mother. See you again soon."

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