Review: Dilecta, Grey Lynn

The Lamb Shoulder with gnocchi and the Pissaladiere at Dilecta in Grey Lynn. Photo / Dean Purcell

Address: 549 Great North Rd, Grey Lynn
Phone: (09) 376 6682
Rating out of 10: Food: 7, Service: 8, Value: 7, Ambience: 7

Dilecta, with its pale green walls, gleaming curved bar and beaming wait-people is a fresh new face in that clutch of shops at the Great North Rd end of Williamson Ave that are taking ages to catch up with the rest of Grey Lynn.

Although it hasn't been open long, after reading Facebook comments from diners, including fashion designer Liz Mitchell, we decided to arrive early to beat the 7pm rush. And the strategy worked: we were shown straight to a table. Much later and we would have had to wait at the bar - and that would have been fun, too.

The Mediterranean-inspired menu at Dilecta, expertly prepared by chef Anthony Gradiska, who comes via French Cafe, Molten and many other notable restaurants, is focused on small plates and there are plenty to choose from. We started with a bowl of tiny brown olives, which we later learned are imported from Spain.

Next came the pissaladiere with caramelised onion jam, white anchovies and olives. The pastry was light, the taste tones beautifully matched between salty and sweet. The black pudding with puy lentils was also a fine coupling, the roasted baby beets with feta hit that sweet/sour flavour combination and along with the rocket, was good on texture too.

Then there was a rather ordinary pork and pistachio terrine, jazzed up with wholegrain mustard alongside the flamed octopus with chorizo, tomato and smoked potato chunks. Although we were warned that octopus is much more robust than calamari, we were surprised by how chewy it was. However, the chorizo made up for it.

Our energetic waiter looked after our every need, but without butting in too often. He seemed to know the extensive wine list pretty well but deferred to the barman to find me a non-acidic pinot gris, which turned out to be the Anne-Laure.

There were just three choices of main course on offer. We chose the salmon and the lamb shoulder with gnocchi, both of which we shared.

The lamb proved to be the highlight of my evening. Not only was it meltingly tender but the gnocchi was super-light, the pumpkin tasty and the sage and pecorino-infused sauce creamy yet light. The whole thing came together with a drizzle of truffle oil that made our taste buds dance. A triumph.

The salmon, with its coriander-spiced salad and aioli, also showed off the class of Dilecta's chef, who managed to achieve not only a crispy skin, but also moist, just-cooked salmon flesh lurking underneath. While in my opinion it was outshone by the lamb, the men enjoyed it.

So on to dessert, with a delicious salted caramel tart, a less-thrilling chocolate fondant that, disappointingly, did not feature a liquid centre, and a hearty cheese selection, which included a thick slice of a soft, aged and glorious brie and a smaller piece of sheep's milk pecorino.

Although, at $310 for four and $13.50 for the glass of Anne-Laure wine, Dilecta does not fall into the cheap and cheerful category, it is an excellent addition to Grey Lynn.

Dilecta means "Beloved" in Spanish, and I'm sure in a few more months it will be the beloved "go-to" restaurant, not just for Grey Lynn but for Ponsonby, Herne Bay and, in time, even the city and eastern suburbs, too.

Our meal: $310 for five glasses of wine and one of sparkling water, six small and two large plates, two desserts and a selection of cheese.

Wine list: Long and varied.

Verdict: Dilecta is a star in the ever-expanding line-up of restaurants in the Grey Lynn, Herne Bay and Ponsonby Golden Triangle. The food is creative and
well put-together to achieve interesting taste and texture combinations. It has a sophisticated-yet-relaxed feel and the service is first class. Not too noisy, parking is easy and wheelchairs can roll in off the street.