The QT in Queenstown overlooking Lake Wakatipu. Photo / Supplied
You can tell tourism is back in full force in Aotearoa’s adventure capital, because the lines at Fergburger are back.
Visiting Queenstown for a long weekend last month, there’s a stark contrast to my last visit two years ago, when the streets were virtually empty and many hospitality favourites had to close their doors.
Our stay coincided with the Queenstown Marathon, which we didn’t realise until after probably the fifth time we were asked, “Are you running?” The answer was yes - to a winery.
Many Kiwis think Queenstown has become too commercialised as it continues to expand, but it’s not stopping overseas visitors from coming back to get an adrenaline rush and soak up the wine and food. The town isn’t just known for its adventure tourism, but its luxury experiences - and after this year, who doesn’t deserve a little bit of luxury?
While splashing out on travel might seem unattainable right now, many of the stays, activities and even flights through Jetstar to Queenstown are available through Afterpay - who hosted me on my trip. So with their help, I put a few of the experiences to the test.
Checking in at the QT, Queenstown
When it comes to luxury accommodation in Queenstown, it doesn’t get much better than the QT - it’s the type of hotel chain where you know you’re in for a treat, no matter the location. But you’d be hard-pressed to find a view like this in Auckland or Wellington, with our Alpine King suite overlooking Lake Wakatipu.
The check-in experience was seamless, the staff welcoming, and the suite had all the treats you’d expect in a five-star hotel: a well-stocked mini bar and fridge including thoughtful additions like mini heat packs, sunscreen and playing cards. You can even order ingredients to make a gin cocktail in your room, with beautiful utensils provided.
When this Gen Z stays at a hotel, she looks for three things: a Nespresso, a Dyson styling tool, and a Chromecast - and the QT checks all those boxes. A deep bath, two sinks, a mirror as wide as the wall and Kevin Murphy shampoo and toiletries make for a pampered bathroom experience.
Another advantage is that the QT is only about 10 minutes’ walk to the centre of town - just note it’s uphill on the way back.
Queenstown might not be particularly known for its coffee, but a flat white at Pier was a great start to our first day - and reminded me just how hard it is to find a really good local coffee in central Auckland. They also do a bang-up eggs benedict.
If you’re planning a trip to Queenstown over the summer, book restaurants in advance - most of them were so busy we couldn’t get a single day-of reservation. That was also likely down to the hordes of runners who had descended upon the town, but it’s still worth coming prepared.
That said, it’s also fun to wander the streets looking for a cocktail or sharing plates and that’s exactly what we did, ending up at Ivy & Lola’s on Friday night for martinis - lychee and espresso, respectively - and a plate of buffalo bites. These come with a twist, however - they’re not chicken, but chunks of blue cod complete with crispy fins. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it - we were pleasantly surprised.
Out of town, a lunch stop at Kinross during our Gibbston Valley wine tour on Saturday got me hooked on their golden, crispy roast potatoes and focaccia, the perfect way to soak up the countless wines we’d sampled halfway so far.
The QT’s in-house bar and restaurant Reds provided quality room service at the end of a long day - their wood-fired pizza is worth staying in for. On Sunday morning, we went for the hotel buffet at Bazaar and the number of choices on offer was overwhelming, from poached eggs to English muffins to pastries to fruits, smoothies, juices and coffee.
Queenstown Wine Trail wine tour
Our Queenstown Wine Trail tour guide Angus told us Queenstown is busier in summer than winter these days - and while wrapping up warm and taking refuge in a winery isn’t a bad way to spend a winter’s day, there’s nothing quite like sampling wine in the sun.
The guided tour took us to three wineries in Gibbston Valley, from Brennan Wines to Kinross to Gibbston Valley Winery.
Kinross was a stand-out as it also represents four Central Otago winemakers: Wild Irishman, Valli, Hawkshead and Coalpit, each with a unique history. The region may be known for its pinot noir, but it was the white wines that left the biggest impression after tasting, from riesling at Brennan to a pinot blanc from Hawkshead at Kinross - a bottle of which had to come home with me.
Our visit to Gibbston Valley Winery also included a tour of their man-made wine cave, lined with barrels and home to a wine “library”, storing bottles worth several thousands of dollars at a low temperature. It’s impressive once your eyes adjust and definitely worth a visit.
Oxbow Adventure Co jet boating and off-roading
Oxbow Adventure Co has only been open two years but it’s more than made a name for itself, fitting right into Queenstown’s adventure scene despite being a half-hour’s drive out of town. Located in Gibbston Valley, Oxbow offers jet boating, off-roading and clay bird shooting. Having tried two out of three, I’m already thinking about going back for another round.
The staff and operators are friendly and professional, and it’s obvious they do this every day simply because they’re having fun. And I’m no adrenaline junkie, but after this experience, I get it.
The tiny jet boats - the only four-seaters in the world - go from 0 to 100km/h in 2.5 seconds and whip you in figure-eights around a custom-built lake circuit for about 10 minutes. Beware if you’re sitting in the back like I was, because the engine is powerful and you’ll cop water to the face as well as air when you go round a sharp corner, but that’s what makes it so invigorating. If you’re like me, three times round the circuit won’t be enough.
Next up was the 15-minute drive in what’s billed as the “ultimate off-roader”. The custom-built 4WD vehicles have such a low centre of gravity that they can go virtually anywhere, as your driver will show you - climbing rocks, drifting round corners and tackling something called “the wall of death” - but I won’t spoil that for you. The other thing to note is that they kick up a huge amount of dust. You’ll be in full protective gear including helmet, goggles, and a face covering but you’ll still get dirt in your mouth - it’s all part of the experience.
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