In short, it's a nice neighbourhood watering hole but whether it merits a trip (from anywhere other than the most proximate parts of the North and the West) is somewhat less certain. I don't know what inference you would draw from the fact that about 80 per cent of the menu lists drinks, but I think it suggests a place that is not seeking to be a dining destination.
So does the food. By that I don't mean that it isn't any good - some of it is very nice indeed - but it's all small plates.
I know I'm not the only one who has had a gutsful of the small plates rort, but I don't mind if restaurants continue with them; I just wish they would have a handful of choices for people who want to have dinner, rather than a toothpick duel over high-quality and high-priced bar snacks.
It's not really toothpicks: they give you cutlery, but every time I laid my fork down, the eccentrically shaped plate sent it shooting onto my lap, which rather annoyed me since I was wearing my good trousers.
Of the four plates we tried from a selection of 10, only the duck croquettes really deserve the bar-food appellation: they came garnished with an assertive chilli jam and a dab of pickled cabbage but they wanted for a sauce - the duck stuffing was plain and slightly dry. Also, there were five of them and two of us: why restaurants who serve tapas-style dishes can't offer diners a mathematically convenient upsizing is a mystery to me.
A dish with the rather distasteful name Forest Floor was the evening's conspicuous failure: mushrooms sauteed with thyme were fine, but the addition of fresh mozzarella was a bad idea. The subtle tastes of the two ingredients demand to be enjoyed alone and the addition of vincotto, a thick, reduced balsamic, obliterated both anyway.
Much better was a delightful Moroccan-inspired dish of grilled cauliflower: set on a bed of lemony hummus and lent zing by a hazelnut dukkah, it was a genuine original. Pork belly with a beetroot puree was excellently done, too, and we shared a inventive dessert, a fool with a base that looked like jelly but turned out to be rhubarb tapioca.
In all, then, this is pretty good food in a place that is more like a bar. If that's your thing, you'll probably be there soon - assuming you live proximately.
Plates $7-$16.50; platters $37-$48; desserts $11-$12
Verdict: Upmarket bar food
Cheers
Awesome foursome
Polly, Maggie, Elyse and Glen from Auckland and Louise of Lower Hutt must be tickled pink (or should that be tickled pale lemon, in the case of the chardonnay?) to see their digital art on the new Stoneleigh Nature's Collection wines. Early this year, Kiwis were asked to capture their favourite nature scenes to feature on a sauvignon blanc (outstanding, by the way), chardonnay, rose and pinot noir. My pick of the foursome is the 2014 Stoneleigh Nature's Collection Marlborough Chardonnay, which is buttery and smooth from ageing in big old oak vats, $17.99.
Fresh off the Italian boat
2013 Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio & Verduzzo, $24.50
Italy is best known for its tradition but here's a tasty white slice of the country's innovation; a combo of popular pinot gris with the verduzzo grape adding fresh crisp acidity to this zesty white. It's new on the list at Gusto restaurant at SkyCity. Or buy from sapori.co.nz
Southern food 'n' wine fest
Heading south in December? If so, head to Hagley Park for the Christchurch South Island Wine & Food Festival on December 6. Yours truly is taking a seminar on chardonnay. See: winefestival.co.nz
By Joelle Thomson,
joellethomson.co.nz
