Sen is the four-month old reincarnation of the pan-Med tapas place C.A.C (which was named for the heritage bluestone building's former life as an ammunition factory; the information board outside is a good read). It has not been much fiddled with because there's not much to fiddle with. Cane lampshades and greenery add atmosphere in the mezzanine-level dining area, where couches have been deployed to make for booth-style eating.
And, the provenance of the meat aside, that eating is mighty fine. Auckland's long-overdue explosion of Vietnamese cuisine in recent years has set the bar pretty high but at Sen, the new venture by the people behind Parkside in Mt Albert, they clear it with ease.
I thought the bowl of pho, the noodle soup that is the national dish, was a little mean for the price, and it could have used some herbs, but the broth was rich and deep. The summer rolls (they held the pork) were fat and crunchy, though, and the fragrant vinegary dipping sauce was spot-on.
Braised pork featured in the banh xeo, the rice-flour stuffed pancake that is another street-food classic. I was glad of that: the combination of the rich meat, the delicate prawn and the crisp sprouts was a winner. And professional duty required me to park my principles and check out the pork belly dish, big fatty layered cubes in a dark, rich broth.
Desserts are only so-so: the puffed black rice is the pick of the bunch, particularly since the lotus pudding is actually a passionfruit number now, no matter what the menu says. But in general, this place gives the more fabled Vietnamese eateries around town a run for their money. Check it out.
Dishes $9-$27.50
Verdict: A superior Vietnamese newcomer, though not for the pork-averse.
